The thing about restaurants owned by celebrity chefs is that expectations, naturally, run high. My previous experience of local outposts of restaurants of this type has not been altogether marvellous, with disappointment the abiding memory, so it was with great curiosity we headed to experience the culinary delights of Luciano by Gino d’Acampo, in Alderley Edge, last month. I can tell you right now – disappointment is not a word you will see again in this review. To summarise, every aspect was outstanding.
We received and warm and efficient welcome and were taken to our table, handed menus and given a few minutes to make our drinks choices – a Bellissima cocktail for me, made with Absolut watermelon vodka, passion fruit, raspberries, peach, lime and cranberry juice. Very sweet, but very delicious. Mike opted for a glass of Sangiovese, rich with cherry and plum and garnished with a breath of tobacco – one of the most iconic of Italian grapes.
The new winter menu offers plenty of warming choices, but we both surprised ourselves by starting with a salad. Quite me, completely not Mike. I chose “Burrata, panzanella”, a rather bald description for the joy that was delivered – a plate filled with the freshest and sweetest of tomatoes, in a delicate dressing, with a simply glorious burrata front and centre. If you haven’t yet experienced this delight of an Italian cheese – I feel bad for you. Made by mixing mozzarella and cream, it has a soft and stretchy outer shell, that when pierced creates a flow of creamy, soft deliciousness from within. Like a cheese fondant. I have had good burrata and I have had poor burrata – and the Luciano’s burrata was top class, just beautiful. Mike chose ‘spinach, avocado, heritage tomato, chestnut mushroom, crispy pancetta’ - again a brief list of ingredients that actually leads to a salad far more than the sum of its parts, especially with the warm mustard dressing that accompanies it (thick enough to dip into). Mike’s words “the best salad I ever had. It’s not like a salad at all,” probably best sum up the man-size plate full of taste and freshness and pleasure. In the battle of the starters, the score was one all.
On to our main courses. Making a welcome return to the a la carte menu from the specials board, ‘Roast pork belly, radicchio, hazelnuts’ is a masterpiece of autumnal cookery. Goodness knows how long that pork belly is roasted for; it might be days judging by its soft, collapsing texture. Served on a bed of the smoothest, creamiest potato ever to grace a plate, it came with what can only be described as a mulled wine jus, alongside pickled radicchio and crunchy toasted hazelnuts. The balance of textures and flavours was sublime. I added a side of zucchini fritte, and heaven was a plate on earth.
Mike opted for that Italian classic, Veal Milanese. A huge, tender, crisply-breadcrumbed steak was served, with side-orders of truffle pecorino fries and spinach. Despite it being ‘absolutely delicious’, he had to confess that I won the battle of the mains. 2-1 – go me.
We’ll definitely be back. Portion sizes are pure Italian generosity (that is, huge), the menu is packed with tempting goodies, the wine list extensive and the service impeccable.
