Fenix is the holistic creation of two imaginative and brave brothers, Adam and Drew Jones, who are busy transforming the restaurant scene in Manchester, and in London, Dubai and elsewhere. They took the Chinese culture and food scene, turned it on its head and created Tattu. Now they have embraced Greek heritage, placed it in a crucible, set light to it and presented Fenix, which is how the Greeks pronounce their combustible and immortal bird that reinvents itself in a blaze of fire.
By bringing to Manchester two of Greece's most outstanding exponents of the culinary arts – Ippokratis Anagnostelis and Zisis Giannouras – the Jones siblings have renewed and revived Greek cuisine, which in its simplest sense would be enjoyed in a rustic Mediterranean taverna. They are transforming great ingredients into a sophisticated and thought-provoking menu that takes the everyday and gathers diners into an odyssey – a journey of taste and texture.
Attention to detail is meticulous here. The interiors are stunning. How fortunate we are that the same attention has been paid to the food when so many start-ups regard that as an afterthought.
Fenix takes its guests from the sophisticated development of St John's in the heart of Manchester into the modern realisation of an Athenian acropolis. The creamy golden ambience is created by a wheaten ceiling, low walls dividing tasteful and comfortably upholstered seating, travertine pillars, bronze artefacts and amphorae, all subtly lit by Hellenic lamps. There is homage to the olive, both by the tree at the foot of the stairs and the surfaces and doors showing off its wood throughout the building; the weighty bronze cutlery is a another classy, classic touch.
We were greeted by a beautiful team of gods and goddesses transformed into mythical beings by way of elegant drapes and smart suits. Then, guided through the wine list by the knowledgeable and persuasive sommelier, we opted for the most delicious white wine, Hatzidakis Santorini Familia, from Assyrtiko grapes grown in volcanic lava soils. It was a perfect accompaniment to our journey across the islands and mainland of Greece.
Laid before us was a selection of delectable spreads including tzatziki, smoked taramasalata, houmous and guacamole together with the best pita bread I have tasted. The taramasalata was light, frothy and gently smoky, and the smoked aubergine salad with red pepper and smoked paprika oil absolutely delicious, as were halloumi cheese tempura and fried calamari when dipped into their dressings. Greek meze are the ancient equivalent of modern small plates and the chefs have gone to great lengths to make the modern versions the best they can be.
I passed an enormous trayful of glossy black torpedoes on my way past the open kitchen and the next dish we tasted celebrated that glorious aubergine in a way hitherto unrealised. A honeyed slab of the vegetable was roasted slowly, then topped with shards of tender, slow-cooked short rib and a foam made from the celebrated graviera cheese, accompanied by a crispy roundel of potato reinvented moussaka. We sampled the Athenian salad of sea bass tartare with a gentle hint of dill and saffron topped with ossetra caviar – utterly fresh, delicious and perfectly seasoned, it contrasted interestingly with a king crab truffle salad that was much richer, equally tasty and designed to be shared.
The on to the meatballs, evoking the best summer barbecues and served in an intensely spicy roasted tomato sauce with coriander yoghurt. We followed this with what our chef correctly called 'Greece on a plate'. A bowl of orzo cooked until soft, stickily aromatic with herbs, ouzo, seafood stock and one enormous langoustine placed centrally with its claws crossed, which beadily beckoned us to taste its delights. It was indeed a dish to savour. But so was the next. Beef paccheri turned out to be an assemblage of fat pasta rolls, redolent with truffle and smoked cheese espuma, topped with a tangle of slow-cooked short rib with soya and grape molasses. The wagyu stifado made the traditional version of the Greek beef stew seem rather parsimonious. This particular reinvention is presented as generous slabs of striploin glazed with wagyu jus, redolent of oregano, bay, allspice and a touch of cinnamon, served with braised onions and a smear of cumin-scented potato emulsion. We tasted the sea bass fillet, and the grilled chard, aubergine purée, smoked pepper cream and piccata which spoke of lightness and sunshine.
The lamb leg en papillote brings the wow factor to the table and the aroma as the parchment is opened and the tender lamb carved is an experience not to be missed. We leaned forward and inhaled. Two very greedy people could, possibly, finish it off, but this is essentially a shared meal designed for four and must be ordered in advance.
We enjoyed a glass of Kotsifali Mandilaria with the lamb. Greek wines are serious contenders now and, like Fenix itself, very rewarding to explore, particularly if time or money prevent you from visiting the country itself.
We took advantage of a lull in proceedings to meet Zisis Giannouras, head chef of Fenix and friend and long-time collaborator of Ippokratis Anagnostelis, the legendary executive head chef who has redefined Greek fine dining both on Mykonos and here at Fenix. We had watched Zisis in action in the open kitchen and his warm and generous personality came across in the way he interacted with his kitchen brigade, who along with the front-of-house, clearly respect his passion for the food he serves. Zisis, who was born in Thessaloniki, became a chef after studying history and archaeology at university. He eventually moved to Mykonos, refining his skill set and working alongside Ippokratis to create a distinctive and sophisticated version of modern Greek food. Their fame caught the attention of Fenix's owners who tempted them to come to Manchester.
Zisis urged me to try his Ion choc ice, and I'm glad he did. Artfully created to look and taste like the best chocolate bar and dusted with edible gold, it opened up with a gentle tap to reveal a light chocolate mousse interspersed with little chunks of crispy almond nougatine. The baklava was also lighter than air – wafer-thin pieces of crispy filo pastry held honeyed nuts topped with date foam and pistachio ice cream. The banoffee was a new take on an old favourite, combining velvety vanilla cream with toffee caramel, a touch of banana and nutmeg all sitting on a generous bed of crunchy cookies. The soupa carida made for a refreshing finale, coconut in origin with a tart green apple sorbet, sprinkled with lemon croutons.
Fenix has swiftly risen to great heights, just like the fabled bird of Greek legend it is named after. We are delighted to have experienced the odyssey.
Lunch set menu £31.50
Evening set menus from £65
A la carte up to £95 for the leg of lamb for four, to be pre-ordered
Wine from £38 a bottle, £9.80 a glass
Fenix, The Goods Yard Building, Goods Yard Street, Manchester M3 3BG
0161 646 0321
fenixrestaurants.com
