‘It’s hard not to fall for Cheshire’s only city. The mixture of medieval and Roman architecture makes it a dream destination for history buffs and photographers, and one of the UK’s most Instagrammable destinations. Where else can you explore Roman walls or a 1,000-year-old cathedral, shop in the unique black and white Rows, or visit the UK’s number-one zoo? After two days exploring Chester, I’ve compiled a list of things to do and see.’
The city walls
Chester is defined by its city wall and walking them is, of course, a free-of-charge activity.
The city’s walls are the oldest and longest in Britain. It’s the only place in the country where walkers can complete a full circuit.
The main access points are at the city’s four “gates”, Northgate. Eastgate, Watergate, and Bridgegate. But as a visitor, you will find access points, including some wheelchair-accessible ramps, as you explore the city centre.
Walking the walls is a great way to take in 2,000 years of Chester’s history.
Chester Cathedral
Chester has a cathedral with many personalities. It’s an ancient abbey, a historical gem, and a vibrant cultural and community hub.
When I visited it was a quiet time, with people enjoying a period of reflection as they discovered the vast cathedral, some parts of which date back to medieval times.
But the cathedral has gained a reputation as a vibrant public space, going far beyond the traditional church activities to offer something for everyone.
Events in 2024, include An Evening With Louise Minchin (September 12), The Country Music Experience (September 26), and a silent disco (November 1).
While visiting this magnificent cathedral, I recommend spending a few moments in the Cloister Garden, the centrepiece of which is the now iconic Water of Life sculpture. The water feature was commissioned to mark the 900th celebrations of the foundation of the Benedictine Abbey of St Werburgh on the site of the current cathedral in 1092.
Created by Chris Butler of Castle Fine Arts Foundry, Oswestry, it depicts the encounter between Jesus and the Woman of Samaria, holding a shared bowl overflowing with water.
Parts of the cathedral, including the Northern arch, date back to the abbey’s foundations in 1092. Visitors can learn more by booking a cathedral tour, available weekly from Monday to Saturday.
Shop until you drop
Whether you are looking for the big-name stores in the Grosvenor Shopping Centre, quirky market stalls, or a huge choice of independent shops, you will be spoilt for choice.
What’s more, shopping in Chester offers something you cannot find anywhere else in the world. The Rows, a network of historic shops with undercover galleries, offer a unique experience.
Chester’s series of black and white buildings dating to the medieval period, are built across Chester’s four main city centre streets; the Rows offer ground-floor shops, some slightly below street level, and a gallery of shops accessed via first-floor walkways.
There are several unique shops here, including Lowe & Sons by Powells, a jeweller that can date its history back to 1770. The company has a long shared history with Chester’s racecourse, supplying it with trophies and cups to be presented to race winners down the years.
Lotus Diamonds, in Bridge Street, has only been in Chester since 2007, but the company makes bespoke pieces in its Chester workshop.
Lee Louise has been trading in Foregate Street for more than 40 years, offering clothing, bags, and accessories, while the locally run Chester Boutique, offers a range of outfits and styling advice.
The Cheese Shop, in Northgate Street, has more than 200 different varieties of cheese and is well known for its tasting events.
Food and drink
Chester is a foodie paradise, with culinary delights to suit every taste in restaurants and bars within the city walls.
The Grosvenor Hotel is a by-word for excellence. The 5-star hotel’s restaurants cater for all occasions, from traditional British afternoon tea to fine dining.
La Brasserie, at the Grosvenor, serves contemporary twists on classic menus, while the prestigious three AA rosette-winning Arkle restaurant is a fine dining experience where executive chef Elliot Hill presents exciting tasting dinners in spectacular surroundings.
Sticky Walnut, in Charles Street, led by renowned chef Gary Usher, is a real gem acclaimed by food critics, while Twenty Eight, opened in 2023 in Pepper Street Row, won a 2024 Condé Nast readers’ award. Young chef Jay Tanner specialises in 'British tapas fresh from the field', using ingredients from a pesticide and biocide-free farm in Daresbury.
Da Noi, on Bridge Street, is one of only 16 Italian restaurants outside London to feature in the Michelin Guide, and in 2024, was awarded an AA rosette for culinary excellence.
Porta, the renowned tapas bar, on Northgate Street, is owned by brothers Joe and Ben Wright, who were born in the nearby village of Oscroft.
Also on Northgate Street, Covino, a small owner-run wine bar and restaurant, is highly recommended by Chester residents, as is Kookaburra, an artisan micro-bakery, on Goss Street. South Indian restaurant, Dabba, also comes highly recommended for its delicious flavours.
For craft beer or real ale, lovers, That Beer Place, in Foregate Street, has a wide range of beers and ciders, while the Pied Bull, Northgate Street, is the only micro-brewery within Chester’s city walls.
Spitting Feathers brewery, in nearby Waverton, has a brewery tap in Lower Bridge Street.
The world's oldest operating racecourse
Horse racing on the Roodee course at Chester dates back to the 16th century. The oldest prize for the winner of a horse race was a hand-painted wooden bowl presented at a fair in Chester in 1512.
Then, in 1539, the Mayor of Chester, introduced an annual horse racing meeting, at the Roodee, making Chester Racecourse the oldest continually used course in the world.
The mayor was one Henry Gee, hence the now well-known nickname for horses, the gee-gees.
By 1817, the popularity of racing at Chester led to the building of the course's first grandstand. Horse racing at Chester remains popular to this day and the tight, bowl-like course, makes the Roodee much loved, with fantastic views of the action for spectators.
The racecourse, with multiple indoor events spaces, offers a venue for events throughout the year, including conferences and concerts.
Chester’s Roman Amphitheatre
Chester’s Roman amphitheatre is the largest to be uncovered in Britain. It dates from the First Century when the Romans established the fort of Deva Victrix.
Excavations to unearth the remains of the amphitheatre began in 1999. It is free to visit the site on Little St John Street.
The Grade 1 Listed structure is now an English Heritage site, managed by Chester City Council and is open each day during sunlight hours.
Chester Zoo
There’s a special opportunity this summer to experience the zoo after hours. The Afterglow events take place on dates between August 13 and 25, with the zoo open until 8pm.
Conservationists at the zoo say Afterglow will offer a rare opportunity to observe animals during what is, for many, one of their most active periods just before dusk.
Visitors will also be treated to live entertainment, exciting games and activities, and delicious food and drink.
Anna Barker, Chester Zoo’s senior marketing manager, says: Many will know what a special place the zoo is by day, but fewer have experienced it as the sun starts to set.
'Afterglow will be a special chance to explore the zoo when it’s usually closed for the evening, and to surround themselves with 37,000 amazing animals as darkness starts to fall.
'You may get see snow leopards Yashin and Nubra on the prowl through their Himalayan habitat at dusk, or the Asian elephants taking an evening dip at the watering hole or watch birds as they begin to return to their roosts before dark.
'Most importantly, every ticket purchased contributes to the zoo’s vital conservation work globally, supporting us in our efforts to make the world a better and safer place for wildlife. It’s a wonderful evening out, which also does good for nature.'
Chester Zoo has more than 31,000 animals and 128 acres of zoological gardens, making it one of the country’s major wildlife and conservation charities.
Chester Castle
Another English Heritage site to visit is Chester Castle. Founded by William the Conqueror, the original wooden structure was rebuilt in stone in the 12th century.
English Heritage runs free rooftop tours of the castle’s Agricola Tower, offering a unique viewing perspective of the city. These tours must be booked in advance and entrance to the castle is off Grosvenor Street.
Walking and bus tours
As an international tourist destination, Chester plays host to a wide variety of tours, either on foot, by boat, or bus.
Sightseeing by bus is ideal for the first-time visitor, with a ticket to ride allowing tourists to hop and and off to view the sights.
Experiencing Chester from on the top deck of a double-decker bus, gives a unique view of the city’s landmarks.
Alternatively, you could take to the water with family-owned company ChesterBoat, which has been running River Dee tours for more than 40 years. There are two choices for public tours, a half-hour city tour, or a two-hour cruise taking in the Duke of Westminster’s Eaton Estate. You can also charter a boat for a picnic or party.
A recent development is gastronomy walking tours, such as the award-winning Walking Food Tours UK run by Gareth Boyd. www.walkingfoodtoursuk.co.uk
'I got the idea of walking food tours in the UK during a visit to New York City, where I took a tour of Greenwich Village, visiting food venues and learning about local history, he says. 'Chester lends itself perfectly to the concept and was a natural choice to launch Walking Food Tours UK.'
Typically, food tourists will only be given the name of the meeting place but will enjoy a tour of Chester taking in four further food and drink venues.
'You will come hungry and leave full, having experienced a selection of the best independent places to eat and drink in Chester. It’s immersive food and fun with storytelling along the way. We attract a diverse audience, from families to hen and stag parties. People say it’s a great way of discovering Chester.'
Gareth also runs Dead Good Ghost Tours, a storytelling experience with actors, that takes in the city’s most haunted sites.
Dark Chester
Chester Green Badge Tourist Guide David Atkinson launched the Dark Chester tour to shine a flickering candlelight into the darkest recesses of the city’s heritage.
A city resident, David says Dark Chester helps visitors to explore questions such as where Satan resides in Chester; why people are afraid of the antique dolls in the Dollectable shop on Lower Bridge Street, and where the great puppet show explosion of 1772 occured
'When I trained as a tourist guide in Chester, I loved learning more about the rich heritage of my home city and also delving into the lesser-known folk tales and exploring the city’s lesser-visited alleyways. After all, Chester has 2,000 years of history, so imagine all the darkness as its fortunes ebbed and flowed over the centuries, he says.
The Dark Chester Tour started as a one-off tour for the Chester Heritage Festival but now runs all year round, on Saturdays at 6pm. Tickets can be bought from the Chester Visitor Information Centre.
The venture won a Tourism Business of the Year Award at the 2024 Marketing Cheshire Awards.
The photogenic city
Mark Carline, a photographer based in Chester, whose pictures appear on this month's front page and in this article is renowned for his evocative and dynamic visual storytelling of the city, its people and places.
'I love photographing Chester in all weather. Whether it's sunny, rainy, foggy, or snowy, I find beauty in every condition,' he says.
Mark is committed to documenting historical moments and cultural shifts in his community with his projects featuring significant events in Chester, such as the closure of the old Chester Market and the transformation of the Chester Odeon into the Storyhouse theatre, library, and cinema.
For more about Mark Carline's work, visit markcarline.co.uk
