Beauty expert Lynette Page asks if collagen face masks really work

I must admit, I’ve been finding myself on TikTok a bit more than I want to be. Collagen face masks have surged to the forefront, promising youthful, glowing skin with just a few applications. But do they truly deliver on their promises, or are they just another viral sensation?

What is a collagen face mask?

Collagen is a protein that naturally occurs in our skin, hair, nails, and connective tissues, providing structure, strength, and elasticity. As we age, our natural collagen production decreases, leading to the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. To combat this, collagen face masks are designed to infuse the skin with collagen, helping to restore its youthful texture and appearance. These masks typically come in sheet form or as a cream/gel that you apply to the face. The idea is that by delivering collagen directly to the skin, these masks can help plump it up, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and provide a more youthful, glowing complexion.

What does it claim to do?

Collagen face masks are marketed with a range of enticing claims. Many are infused with hydrating ingredients that help to moisturise the skin, leaving it soft and supple. By boosting the skin's collagen levels, they aim to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Some masks claim to tighten and firm the skin, improving elasticity and reducing sagging. Regular use is said to enhance the skin's natural glow, making it appear more radiant and youthful. Collagen masks often promise to improve the overall texture of the skin, making it smoother to the touch.

Does it really work?

While the claims are alluring, the effectiveness of collagen face masks is a topic of debate among dermatologists and skincare experts. A primary concern is whether collagen applied topically can actually penetrate the skin's outer layer to provide the benefits it promises. Collagen molecules are quite large, and there is limited evidence to suggest they can be absorbed through the skin. However, some formulations break down collagen into smaller peptides that may have a better chance of being absorbed and potentially stimulate collagen production in the skin.

Many collagen masks are loaded with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera, which can help moisturise and temporarily plump the skin. This can give the appearance of smoother, more youthful skin, but the effect is often short-lived.

While collagen masks might provide some immediate benefits in terms of hydration and plumping, they are unlikely to have a significant long-term impact on collagen production. For more substantial anti-aging results, ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, and peptides that are proven to stimulate collagen production internally are often more effective.

Some users report a temporary tightening effect after using collagen masks, but this is usually due to the other active ingredients in the mask, rather than the collagen itself. Long-term firming benefits are not well-supported by scientific evidence.

The exfoliating and hydrating effects of these masks can enhance skin texture and radiance temporarily, giving the skin a smoother, more glowing appearance for a few hours or days. While collagen face masks might not be the miracle cure they are often marketed as, they can still play a valuable role in maintaining hydrated, healthy-looking skin, especially when used in conjunction with other skincare practices.

Here are my picks

Bio-Collagen Face Mask Sheets, £12.99 amazon.uk

This felt lightweight on my skin and stayed hydrated for a good four days after.

Try-Youth Youth Bio Face Mask, £36 www.try-youth.com

Definitely not for overnight as the instructions say. I left it on for around four hours. After a few adjustments it stayed in place. My skin felt plump and radiant. Loved it!