Ancient settlers knew what they were doing when they picked this deep valley on the edge of the Camel Estuary, an area of outstanding natural beauty. Once a quiet harbour town, Rick Stein has put Padstow firmly on the foodie map. Culinary delights aside, the town offers a delightful blend of history, natural beauty and stunning beaches nearby. Its name comes from Petroc-stow, meaning Petroc's Place. According to folklore, Celtic saint St Petroc arrived from Ireland and built a monastery high above the harbour, although now long gone, visitors will be rewarded with some stunning coastal views. Wander round the picture postcard streets and peruse the artisan shops, boutiques and galleries or head to the harbour where boats along the quayside gently rock to the ebb and flow of the water. This is the social hub of the town and a perfect people watching spot with brass bands playing regularly, performing street entertainers and day trippers catching one of the many boat trips. Visitors in May can catch the fabulously quirky Obby Oss festival. The ancient tradition has two ‘osses’ (hobby horses) a red and blue one, which parade round the streets with teasers goading them; the town is festooned with flowers, flags and greenery.
‘May Day or Obby Oss as it is known is the biggest day in the Padstow calendar,’ says Deborah Thomas, manager of Padstow Tourist Information Centre. ‘It is a day when Padstonians from all over the world return to their roots. As the procession moves around the town, dancers perform a traditional dance to the sound of accompanying musicians and drummers all culminating at the May Pole in the early evening.’
Ladies, a word of warning, tradition claims that any woman who goes under the apron of the oss will be married or pregnant within the year!
History and conservation
Prideaux Place has been in the Prideaux family for 14 generations. It opened to the public in 1987 but remains a family home where you will find family photographs and the occasional Labrador wandering around. Only a 10-minute walk from the harbour, the current custodians are Peter and Elisabeth Prideaux-Brune. Elisabeth calls the charming Elizabethan manor a: ‘Cornucopia of Cornish history. It’s a haven of peace from the busy hustle of Padstow. People can come and have lunch or cream tea and lookout over the deer park and the Camel Estuary beyond. My favourite place is the formal garden which was a compete wilderness when my husband Peter inherited it.’
The house has been a popular location for filming. In the BBC One drama Poldark, the headland at Stepper Point, part of the estate, was used as a dramatic backdrop. Peter has also made the occasional appearance on screen with cameo roles as a chauffeur, a gin taster and a coroner.
‘We love being part of the community and run events during the year', continues Elisabeth. 'This year is quite special, it’s the 200th anniversary of the RNLI so we are celebrating with an open-air concert with Fisherman’s Friends on August 9.'
The house is open over the summer months from April through to October.
From local history to the conservation community, The National Lobster Hatchery on Riverside is a small marine conservation charity which releases thousands of juvenile lobsters each year, helping to preserve fish stocks of European lobsters and highlight marine conservation. ‘It’s quirky, but it captures people’s imagination and is a great introduction to learning more about local marine life,’ says marina biologist and manager, Nicola O’Donnell.
‘A network of fisherman bring the pregnant lobsters to us and they go into our maternity ward. Females can have on average 20,000 eggs but only one is expected to survive in the wild. In the peak session 3,500 are born every day - we give them 1000 percent more of a chance.’
Visitors can see the ever-changing display of local marine life including the rarely seen babies and big lobsters alongside other wonderful coastal creatures.
‘Nothing stays permanently, they are released back into the wild,’ explains Nicola. ‘If the fisherman catch something unusual, particularly large or a different colour they bring it to us so people can see these interesting animals. We usually have a large lobster – at the moment it’s Ivey a large purple one which is rare.'
Collaborating with local artists to showcase their work adds an extra element to the centre and this summer there is also an exhibition of preserved marine life.
‘It will be an up-close look at sea creatures with deep sea diving footage to allow visitors to see these creatures in the wild,’ says Nicola.
As well as an adoption program, an initiative started last year allows people to get involved in the release program – details are advertised via Facebook. ‘It’s a chance for the public to be a part of the end journey and release these creatures back into the ocean. Locals and tourist love it – what better way to get people interested.’
Glorious food
Padstow is synonymous with good food. You really can’t visit Cornwall’s food capital without sampling some of its great restaurants. Whether you’re seeking fine dining, seafood delights or comfort food like fish and chips or a Cornish pasty, there’s plenty to showcase Padstow’s culinary scene. Rick Stein has been cooking up a storm at his Seafood Restaurant in the town since 1975 offering fresh fish simply cooked. From salmon and tuna tartare to Indonesian seafood curry with cod, monkfish and prawns. It’s popular, so you will need to book ahead.
Family run restaurant Greens of Padstow has stunning sea views of the harbour and a warm atmosphere. Don’t miss their Cornish crab linguine or the classic fish and chips served in Cornish cider batter.
If you want your food elevated to another level then Paul Ainsworth at No. 6 is a Michelin-starred gem. It was recently named 12th out of the 100 best restaurants in the country. The menu combines British and European flavours and its signature dish of crabsticks and scones always gets rave reviews.
Cosy little seafood bar Prawn On The Lawn has more of a laid back vibe and serves tasty, tapas-style small plates great for sharing with friends or family. It champions local suppliers including Padstow Brewery Company. If you have ever wanted to know what a hop rocket is then a take a tour of this award-winning microbrewery. Caron and Des Archer, offer guided tastings or order a flight of three different craft beers or ciders at one of the brewery’s two tasting rooms in the town.
A stone’s throw from Padstow is Trevibban Mill vineyard, a working vineyard and winery. From the south facing terrace you can sip on the estate's award winning wines complemented with a charcuterie or cheese board while enjoying magnificent views of St Issey Valley.
Check in
Part of the Ainsworth Collection, you will find Padstow Townhouse is on a quiet side street in the heart of the town. The boutique hotel owned by chef Paul Ainsworth is beautifully styled by his wife Emma. Choose from six individually decorated suites with delicious names including Rhubarb and Custard, Popcorn and Toffee Apple. Breakfast hampers are delivered to the room so you can enjoy breakfast in bed.
For freestanding baths, huge four poster beds and Juliette balconies head to St Edmunds House, a stylish six-bedroom property owned by Rick Stein. With incredible estuary views and a tranquil garden will be sure to completely unwind. As well as priority booking at one of Rick Stein’s restaurants, picnics and hampers can be arranged so you can explore more of the stunning coast.
With bright rooms designed in nautical hues, The Harbour Hotel is full of coastal charm. Perched above Padstow’s bustling harbour with views looking out over the Camel Estuary you can enjoy a complementary gin and sink between the 400 thread count sheets after a day exploring the area. It has been named as one of the best hotels in Cornwall by the Times so you can't go too wrong.
Follow the Camel
This largely traffic-free 18-mile trail follows an old railway line and is mainly flat so is ideal for families and wheelchair uses. Take in breathtaking views of the Camel Estuary, moorland and woodland. Hire a bike or take in the views on foot.
Cornish glass
Leading glass designer Jo Downs has a gallery here. Her handmade fused glass includes statement interior pieces alongside gifts and exclusive designs based on Tintagel’s Gull Rock.
