For most landlubbers, the ebb and flow of life on the water passes us by, much like the resident swans whose serenity masks a paddling beneath the surface to stay afloat. Similarly, there are often undercurrents at play for those people who live and run businesses along some Derbyshire’s scenic network of canals.
Having called Shardlow home for over 30 years, Sue Hampson adores her cottage garden fronting onto the towpath that follows the Trent and Mersey Canal towards the village’s historic inland port.
For Sue, this stretch of water, just eight miles outside of Derby, has a mesmeric draw, whether that be through chatting to the many walkers and boaters cruising past her gate or taking to the water aboard her own cherished narrowboat.
Steeped in family memories, Kwa Heri, or The Purple Boat as she’s affectionately known as thanks to the striking retro paintwork, is moored on the opposite side of the canal.
‘The old historic boats often get renovated and frequently change hands during their lifetime,’ reveals Sue. ‘Whilst most families inheriting a leisure boat like ours often sell them too, so I think we’re quite unusual.
‘Kwa Heri, which is a bit of a mouthful, means “goodbye” in Swahili and is a nod to the time my parents spent in East Africa. The narrowboat has been in the family since mum and dad had it built 44 years ago; then they lived in Allestree, so with the boat moored at Willington, they used to go away on it for up to six months at a time.
‘We brought it over to Shardlow about 12 years ago whilst my mum was still alive. It had fallen into a dreadful state of disrepair, which as boat owners will tell you was down to a lack of use and maintenance. So, we got it renovated in order to take mum out on little trips and there are photos of her in her eighties on the gunnels. When my kids were young we used to go away with them and would have really special times.’
With Sue’s daughter Jennibel managing the hiring out of The Purple Boat to holidaymakers, this 42- foot-long craft may be a grand old dame of the waterways but has all mod-cons, including solar panels fitted to the roof.
Meanwhile, the family currently has another restoration project underway, also intrinsically connected to the canal: this time, it’s the conversion of a 200-year-old former cart house into a waterside let.
The building was most probably in use following James Brindley’s 1777 canal extension to the Trent navigation system – when salt, coal and grain were ferried to and fro the commercial barges and sail boats that plied their trade – establishing Shardlow as a thriving transhipment port.
Over the centuries, the arrival of the railways and the decline of traditional industries has seen associated buildings decommissioned and repurposed, predominantly for residential and hospitality use.
However, with 50 grade-two-listed structures among the historic warehouses and boat owners’ houses still standing, this bucolic corner of South Derbyshire boasts some of the best examples of 18th century canal architecture found anywhere in Britain.
Today, Shardlow Marina, with over 300 private moorings and related boating facilities, plus an adjoining holiday caravan park, now sits within the canal basin.
And JD Narrowboats, based at Dobson’s Boatyard, continue to offer bespoke fit-outs and repairs.
However, since the construction of the A50 by-pass, many local businesses have ceased trading, with the prospect of the village becoming another dormitory community.
Step up Sue, who was driven by the desire to encourage fellow locals to feel good about living here, as well as shining a spotlight on Shardlow’s attractions to a wider audience.
Currently supported by a committee of ten passionate individuals who are ‘brilliant, and right behind me,’ she’s put her heart and soul into establishing the Shardlow Inland Port Festival.
‘This year’s event in September will be our fourth Festival, it’s just getting bigger and bigger,’ she says proudly. ‘Last year we had around 8,000 people come, it was a wonderful occasion.’
And, listening to her reel off what’s happening, it’s clear that there are plenty of reasons to visit Shardlow during the Festival weekend.
‘The main feature is the wonderful Floating Market and this year we’ll have around 19 trading boats selling everything on-board - from cheeses and cakes, to all sorts of handmade crafts and canal art, and holistic treatments.
‘The other half of the event takes place around the wharf and Heritage Centre, which is where we shall have the beautiful historic boats. These are former cargo carrying barges converted into homes; they’re a real draw and come from all over the country. We also have charity stalls and, my personal favourite, Ebony the Shire horse.’
Shardlow Heritage Centre, incidentally, is housed within a former salt warehouse and tells the full story of the rise and fall of the inland port.
There’s a full-size replica of a narrowboat back cabin, and information about canal walks and cycle trails.
‘Head over to the church and the children of Shardlow Primary School will be holding an art exhibition, and a children’s stone trail will be laid each day,’ Sue continues.
‘The local pubs also get involved: there’s a food court at The Navigation, whilst The Boathouse has a funfair, and a dog show is taking place at The Shakespeare. For over a mile, the whole village is absolutely buzzing. And entry is free.’
The success of the festival resulted in Shardlow receiving Heritage Harbour status in 2022. It’s quite an accolade as, along with Chester and Stourport-on-Severn, the Derbyshire site has the distinction of being one of only three inland port harbours nationally recognised for celebrating its heritage.
Although, as Sue is keen to point out, Shardlow can be enjoyed at any time of year.
‘If you moor-up with a boat you can stop-off at one of our many pubs. And we have some fabulous wildlife walks from here,’ she reveals.
‘As well as a pair of swans, we get moorhens, coots and ducks. Plus, there are some beautiful butterflies.
‘Honey John’ Crocker, who lives on the other side of the canal, keeps bees; there are often bats swooping over the waters; and, as well as the woodpecker I hear in my garden, we see goldfinches and chaffinches in the fields. Both The Trent Valley Way and Derwent Valley Heritage Way come through Shardlow.’
With the green shoots of Shardlow’s Renaissance beginning to appear, thanks in no small part to the festival and the inland port becoming a Heritage Harbour, the canal’s appeal endures.
Its use may have changed, yet its waters remain framed at this time of year by ancient weeping willows and buildings steeped in history.
For boaters, like Sue, it’s a source of continued joy.
‘I love my Purple Boat. If I want to go somewhere, I can just take off,’ she concludes.
‘The River Soar is a lovely piece of river. Alternatively, there’s beyond Aston Weston and Willington, up to Alrewas.’
It seems the magic of life on the water knows no boundaries. Once you’re hooked, that’s it.
Set a course for Shardlow Inland Port Festival
When: Saturday 7 and Sunday 8 September, 10am-4pm.
Where: Shardlow, Trent and Mersey Canal.
What: Entertainment for the whole family.
Getting there: Free visitor boat moorings from Derwent Mouth Lock number 1 to Wilne Lane Bridge number 2. Car parking DE72 2GP. Free disabled car park.
