One of, if not ‘the’ oldest borough in England, Barnstaple has a rich history, one which is about to be celebrated with a new regeneration project.
It’s a fair bet that anyone who visits the north of the county will take some time to explore Barnstaple.
This is after all the biggest town in the area and it’s situated in an impressive position on the banks of the River Taw.
Its street layout is much the same as it was in Saxon times, with the High Street running parallel to the river, leading to the old Castle Mound. Look up above the shop fronts, every building is different and many retain their narrow frontages, an indicator of the town’s past layout.
Barnstaple was once a very busy port but these days the river is a quiet spot and a good for a stroll. From The Square take a riverside walk along Taw Vale to Rock Park. Head in the other direction and you come to The Strand and the opportunity to sit and enjoy a riverside view, or stop off for coffee and cake at two popular cafes. Tea by the Taw and Queen Anne’s Café on the Strand are in two of the town’s most familiar old buildings, the former bus station built in 1922 on the site of the old railway station and the rather grand Queen Anne’s Walk, the old merchants exchange.
There are a number of special buildings in Barnstaple, including Barnstaple Parish Church with its twisted spire and St Anne’s arts and community centre, a former chantry chapel which dates back to the 14th century and was once used as a school. All these heritage treasures came under scrutiny as part of a review of the town’s cultural assets. This in turn has helped form the basis of a major £11million regeneration project through the Future High Streets Fund. The focal point is the town’s ‘jewel in the crown’, the pannier market, and the idea is to create a Market Quarter around the town centre site which includes the Guildhall and Butcher's Row. The area will be upgraded, pedestrianised and access will be improved from the Queen Street car park and through to the river via Cross Street, historically the key route from the town centre to the quay.
Food & Drink
There are some excellent independent cafes and coffee shops in Barnstaple. The Boutport Café is hugely popular, open from breakfast and serving devilish ‘wacky waffles’ and cream teas. The Cream Tea Café in Church Lane is another family run and super friendly stop off and there’s Artisarni for more fabulous cake and coffee just around the corner in Butcher's Row. This street is also home to The Crafty Beer Shop. Be dazzled by the array of said beers, wines and spirits and while you’re at it you can tuck into a sharing board. For globally-inspired dishes including burritos, katsu curry and pho, head to Block, which is also open from brunch-time. Long-standing popular foodie haunts in the town include Claytons, with its roof top Glasshouse restaurant and 62 The Bank, a bistro boasting an impressive Jacobean plasterwork ceiling and with a cocktail bar alongside.
Where to stay
Barnstaple is the home of the Brends’ West Country hotel group, and no surprise that it has a number of hotels, all well situated, in town. The Imperial stands impressively on Taw Vale with the Royal and Fortescue not far away at the end of the High Street. The Barnstaple Hotel is just out of town, giving easy access to the nearby coast. Then there’s the Park Hotel in a quiet spot overlooking Rock Park. It shares a four star rating with the Imperial. For something a little out of the ordinary, a couple of miles from Barnstaple in a wooded valley is Broomhill Estate, a fabulous art hotel and restaurant where the personality and ambiance of each of its seven boutique rooms is inspired by an arthouse or cult film.
More to Do
Eagle in town
Loveable ski legend Eddie the Eagle opened the new Tarka Leisure Centre in June, an impressive £15 million addition to the town. It’s on Seven Brethren Bank, and incorporates the existing Tarka Tennis Centre. It boasts an ‘endless ski slope’ and eight lane swimming pool with movable floor.
Cycle adventure
Barnstaple is the central hub for the Tarka Trail, North Devon's cycle and walking route that covers 180 miles. It leads along old railway tracks through both estuary, coastal and inland countryside. There are plenty of places to hire bikes too along the route.
