The owners of a seafood restaurant in the maritime setting of Plymouth’s Royal William Yard have launched a new market, selling fish straight off their own boats. Now’s the time to try their recipes for the season’s catch, mackerel and scallops, at home
When local fisherman Ben Squire was given the opportunity to open a new seafood restaurant and rum bar in Royal William Yard, he jumped at the chance.
‘I’m passionate about catching, cooking and eating fish,’ says the co-founder and owner of The Hook & Line, who has been doing all three for most of his adult life.
At the age of 21, with the help of £1,000 grant from The Princes Trust, Ben purchased a fishing boat and started a small business running mackerel and deep-sea fishing trips in Plymouth. The business flourished and he now owns a fleet of cruise boats, fishing boats and ferries. His family-run Plymouth Boat Trips business also looks after the marina at Royal William Yard.
Ben’s love of fishing and seafood inspired him to open The Boathouse on the Barbican, serving fish and shellfish, caught by his fleet of boats, and in 2020, The Hook & Line at Royal William Yard.
Ben and business partner Steve Page, a hospitality pro with a penchant for rum, were getting ready to open The Hook & Line in March 2020 and then… the pandemic hit, almost sending their entire business to the wall.
After the initial shock of lockdown, patience, persistence, optimism and courage saw Ben and Steve determined to launch The Hook & Line. On May 23, 2020 the restaurant opened its doors for takeaway, collection and pre-ordered fresh fish boxes. While it wasn’t the grand opening they had originally hoped and planned for, the pair’s resilience and determination paid off, and in less than ten days The Hook & Line became one of Plymouth’s most popular takeaway foodie venues.
‘I was worried that no-one would come, but on the first day the phone just did not stop ringing and we took an amazing 220 orders,’ says Ben.
Born and bred in Plymouth, Steve has a natural affinity with and passion for the city and its people.
‘This is a very special community - it’s in our DNA to be intrepid,’ he says. Undaunted by the prospect of opening in the middle of the first lockdown of 2020, The Hook & Line proved to be an instant hit, with its signature seafood chowder, fish tacos, and traditional fish and chips made with their own Hook Line and Sinker IPA, flying out the door.
The coastal setting at Royal William Yard, surrounded by water on three sides, with incredible river and sea views, has proved to be the perfect place for Ben and Steve to keep innovating and bringing new ideas to the community.
Now, The Hook & Line’s quirky, rustic interior sees families and friends gather around long tables, right on the waterside at the Yard, to meet, eat and drink, enjoy regular live acoustic sets and ‘Hook and Cook’ experiences.
In April the team launched a new seafood market at the Yard, giving people the chance to buy, locally caught super fresh fish and shellfish, complete with simple recipe cards, or enjoy it cooked there and then on the barbecue.
Scallops with chilli butter and lime
Scallops are a delicious and tender shellfish, with a mild buttery and slightly sweet taste that take just minutes to cook – the ultimate healthy fast food! This quick and easy recipe combines fresh chilli for a kick and lime to balance the flavours.
Ingredients
6 – 8 scallops
2 tsp olive oil
1 tsp butter
1 tsp fresh red chilli, finely chopped
2 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
Lime wedges to serve
Fresh coriander, roughly chopped
Method
Melt the butter and olive oil in a small frying pan over a medium to high heat.
When the butter foams, add the scallops for about 1 min until golden on one side. Turn in the pan and add the chopped garlic cloves and fresh red chilli into the pan. Cook for a further minute.
Finish with roughly chopped coriander, season with salt and pepper and serve straight away, scooping the chilli butter from the pan to drizzle and adding a squeeze of lime. Enjoy with a hunk of bread for dipping.
The Hook & Line mackerel pate
Mackerel is a wonderfully flavoursome fish, caught in local Devon waters. It’s extremely versatile and makes a delicious pate, perfect as a starter, served on small toast as a canapé or as a light lunch with salad.
Serves 2
Ingredients
2 large, 3 medium or 4 small whole fresh mackerel
1 tsp horseradish
2 tsp Dijon mustard
freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp crème fraîche
2 sprigs of finely chopped parsley
½ lemon, juice only
100g unsalted butter, chopped
optional ingredient, small slug of brandy!
Spring onions, parsley or pickled cucumber for garnish
Method
Heat a splash of oil in a frying pan and fry the mackerel.
Remove the skin from the fish and as many bones as possible, don’t worry too much as the mixture will go into the blender.
Add the lightly flaked mackerel, horseradish, mustard, black pepper, crème fraiche and lemon juice and blend for about 20 seconds.
Add the butter and blend until smooth, season to taste with salt.
Spoon into pots and chill for a few hours.
Serve with chopped spring onions or pickled cucumber on toasted sourdough or granary bread.
