Sometimes, it’s not until you have visitors staying that you realise your hometown is actually pretty great. As a Torquay resident, it’s easy to get complacent about the palm trees, the beaches, the countryside, the harbour, the restaurants and cafes, events and historic buildings. When it’s your doorstep, all of this blends into being part of the daily grind. But every now and then - and usually when we have family or friends to entertain - I’m reminded of just how nice it is here.
We walk through the historic village of Cockington and join the water meadows, which lead out to the start of the seafront, just by Livermead Beach. From there, you can stroll on to Corbyn’s Head, past the Grand Hotel, before stopping for a rockpooling session at Corbyn’s Beach. Then there’s usually time for a sit on the steps at Torre Abbey Sands while the kids paddle. Those that fancy it can then carry on walking past the Princess Theatre and towards the harbour, noting the beautifully maintained and landscaped gardens. There was issue with some palm trees being cut down a while ago in the Italian Gardens, but that area is now being replanted with 1,600 new plants (including new palm trees) and already looks fab.
Torquay Harbour is worth wandering around for food and drink and hanging a crab line over the railings. The whole area is in the process of being transformed, thanks to £21.9 million from the government’s Town Deal Funding. The major facelift has been disruptive for local businesses and traffic, but it looks as though it’s going to be worth it.
Designs for the area include an extended walkway, new planting, cycle lanes and minimal cars.
There’s talk too that restoration work could soon be starting on the nearby Grade II-listed Pavilion building. The seaside landmark which opened in 1912 has been a theatre, cinema, shopping centre and ice rink in its time before it was boarded up and fenced off in 2012. It’s been painful to watch it slowly fall into disrepair, but the building is now back under the full control of the local council and it’s hoped renovation work can begin soon.
The ‘top of town’, as it’s referred to, could do with the same treatment. Like many seaside resorts, Torquay has its fair share of issues – unemployment, seasonal business, lack of housing etc. Many of these issues seem to come together in the town centre and there are plenty of empty shops that could do with a new lease of life. But then, that’s the story in a lot of places, isn’t it?
Torquay is still a destination of choice for many holidaymakers who flock here every year to enjoy the many good things about this much-loved seaside town. It’s good to remember that once in a while.
FOOD AND DRINK
Visto Lounge (Abbey Crescent) for all-day dining for everyone, including the dog. Breakfast and brunch are specialities, plus it’s a great place to sit and watch the world go by.
Small World (Abbey Road) for tapas. It’s run by a Cornish chef Kevin Robertson-Wells and his partner Sara Pla, who is Spanish. The food is authentic and the welcome always warm.
For decent fish and chips, Saltwater (Victoria Parade) is hard to beat. My mate from Grimsby agrees and she would know.
Talking of fish, Number 7 Fish Bistro (Beacon Hill) has been here since 1993 and is a locals’ favourite. Their menu celebrates the best fish and shellfish that arrives from just across the water in Brixham. The wine bar upstairs is lovely, too.
For posh nosh, The Elephant is a real treat. It has retained its Michelin Star since 2006.
East in the West (Torwood Street) for proper good curry and Junjaow (also Torwood Street) for top Thai.
Pop into The Hole in the Wall (Park Lane) for a pint on the way. It’s Torquay’s oldest pub, dating back to circa 1540.
WHERE TO STAY
The 25 (Avenue Road) is a five-star boutique B&B with fabulous rooms that each have their own style. Owners Andy and Julian have won loads of awards over the years for this one-of-a-kind B&B, including the TripAdvisor - Travellers' Choice ‘Best of the Best’ 2023.
The Grand Hotel on the seafront is one of Torquay’s iconic landmarks. Crime writer Agatha Christie spent her honeymoon night here with her first husband, Archie, on Christmas Eve 1914.
Over the other side of town, The Cary Arms and Spa at Babbacombe is an incredible spot with loads of choice when it comes to accommodation for people and pets.
Osborne Apartments (Hesketh Crescent) offers a choice of individually styled one, two, and three-bedroomed apartments, located less than a minute from the award-winning Meadfoot Beach.
MORE TO DO
Torquay is the birthplace of the famous crime writer and novelist Dame Agatha Christie. Follow in her footsteps by taking part in a walking trail. englishriviera.co.uk
Torre Abbey is a museum of history and art, housed in an Ancient Scheduled Monument. There are some beautiful walled gardens to explore here, too.
