You don’t have to be a surfer to appreciate the laid-back vibe and big wave thrills of Woolacombe and Mortehoe. This stretch of the North Devon coast is a must-visit, even if you’re just planning a pasty and a paddle. Walking along the sand from Putsborough is the best way to arrive at Woolacombe, a village famous for being a surfers’ paradise and all-round happy hangout. Families flock to this and the neighbouring, slighter quieter and more secluded village of Mortehoe to enjoy seaside holidays of the life-affirming kind. The big, endless skies, miles of golden sands, rockpools, ice-creams, stripy windbreaks, a couple of arguments over whose turn it is to do the tea/chip/beer run but mostly, sheer bliss. Some holidaymakers can’t bring themselves to leave. Woolacombe and Mortehoe are home to plenty of ‘blow-ins’ as they say down here who’ve chosen to abandon the real world and live here permanently.
It makes for a friendly, welcoming type of community which pulls together with the ebb and flow of the season. Make no mistake, it gets busy when the surf’s up and the sun’s out but there are places to walk to if you need to escape the crowds (there’s a nice, shady route you can do around Woolacombe, via Combesgate).
Long-term Woolacombe residents say it’s quieter in the evenings these days. The popularity and quality of the local holiday parks and their on-site restaurants and entertainment means slightly fewer people are venturing down or up to the villages at night. Still, that just means you stand a better chance of getting a table or a place at the bar. Woolacombe and Mortehoe are well-served for food and drink (more on that later). There’s also plenty to do here to work up an appetite. It’s almost pointless trying to resist hitting the waves at some stage. Woolacombe, part of the North Devon Surf Reserve, has a fantastic selection of surf schools and instructors, all geared up to make sure you experience some of the best breaks on the planet. Back on dry land, make the most of this truly spectacular section of the South West Coast Path. There are some strenuous ascents (especially between Lee Bay and Morte Point), but you’ll be rewarded for your heroic efforts with the wildlife and views.
FOOD AND DRINK
Miss Fea’s Bistro is on the ground floor of The Smugglers Rest B&B in North Morte Road, Mortehoe (see Where to Stay). Good food, good wine and good service - what ‘mortehoe’ do you want? Fowey mussels, roast hake, confit duck leg are just a few examples of the seasonal dishes.
Sri Lankan curry nights at The Beachcomber Café at Barricane Beach are legendary. They’re served between 5 and 7pm, unless it’s raining.
In Woolacombe, Red Barn (Barton Road), part of Hall & Woodhouse, is a top family-friendly and beachside choice.
The young and hip hang out at Bar Electric (Beach Road), a cocktail bar with a sun terrace. Food is light snacks, pizzas and burgers etc.
The Jubilee Inn (aka The Jube) in South Street is family-run traditional local that’s been recently renovated. It serves decent bar meals and sharing platters, plus there’s a kids’ menu.
WHERE TO STAY
As previously mentioned, The Smugglers Rest in Morthoe is a B&B. There are stylish rooms to suit all stays. Hartland and Lundy are the most luxurious with freestanding slipper baths.
Warden is a cosy lighthouse cottage, perfect for two. If you're travelling with a larger group, there are other lighthouse cottages on the same site (see coolstays.com).
The Nest is a modern holiday home, just 200 metres from the golden sands of Woolacombe Beach (marsdens.co.uk).
The four-star Watersmeet Hotel sits just above Combesgate Beach. It’s just won ‘Best Waterside Hotel’ for the UK and Ireland 2024 in the Condé Nast Johansens Awards for Excellence.
Holiday parks are plentiful and well-established. Woolacombe Sands is a third generation, family-run caravan and camping site that’s been here for more than 30 years. The site has self-catering holiday homes, caravans, cabins, as well as camping and touring pitches.
Woolacombe Bay is also just a short walk to the beach and has a range of accommodation options, depending on choices and budgets.
MORE TO SEE
Board life
Woolacombe Surf Centre is a ‘Centre of Excellence’, an accreditation handed out by Surfing England. The highly qualified instructors offer lessons, or else there is surf equipment hire, including boards, wetsuits, paddleboards and more.
Saddle up
Enjoy the beautiful sea views on horseback. Woolacombe Riding Stables organises a selection of escorted trips for all abilities. The sand dune ride is great for experienced riders.
Shipwrecks and more
Mortehoe Museum in a former cart linhay barn has displays covering life in this extraordinary coastal setting, from shipwrecks to the coming of the railway, the development of local tourism and its role in the Second World War.
INSIDER KNOWLEDGE
Thanks to world-famous surfer Kevin ‘Cookie’ Cook who has lived in Woolacombe for 42 years, having had the choice to live just about anywhere. He is chair of trustees of the Museum of British Surfing, a parish councillor and co-founder of the North Devon World Surfing Reserve. He gave me some insider knowledge for this article.
