Stuart White, executive head chef at The Victoria Hotel, Sidmouth
How would you describe your approach to food?
I have a classical approach, honed over three years at Exeter College, which provided a great foundation for my style of cooking. The basics that I learned there continue to influence my cooking, such as classic sauces, which add depth of flavour to dishes, and taking cuts from braising joints as a whole, such as beef feather blades and lamb shoulder.
Who's your food hero, a chef who's inspired you?
It’s difficult to name just one chef as I believe that you can learn something valuable from every chef you encounter. When I first started my training, Gordon Ramsay was the ‘poster chef’ of the time. He’s an outstanding chef, but his management style is not something I’d ever adhere to. Heston Blumenthal is a true visionary in the world of cooking, with a deep understanding of food and flavour and he pushes the boundaries of what is possible in the kitchen. Another chef who has inspired me is Simon Hulstone, who has held a Michelin star at The Elephant Restaurant in Torquay since 2006. Hulstone is known for his clean, well-presented, and constantly evolving dishes, which are inspired by his travels and his dedication to using the best local and seasonal ingredients.
A memorable cooking experience?
I worked in a hotel in Cardiff. It was a new opening and a brand new team and no one knew each other. The chef was phenomenal - John Williams - and he taught me a great deal about consistency, precision, and flavour. It was an eye-opener being in a city, having been born and brought up in the quiet seaside town of Seaton, but everyone came together, everyone bonded and the food was very different. If I hadn’t worked there it would have been a very different career path.
Your favourite dish on the current menu?
There are quite a few! I am currently very fond of our scallop dish, which features seared scallops with chorizo and cauliflower. The combination of flavours and textures in this dish is truly exceptional, and it has been a hit with our customers.
A favourite dining-out spot in Devon?
I do like Wagamama for its taste and consistency, and there’s no pretentiousness with it. My partner Elena and I really love a traditional afternoon tea, and we always like to try somewhere different such as on Dartmoor. We’ll go exploring and find somewhere new in Devon that serves a good cream tea.
What do you love most about Devon?
Devon offers an incredible array of fresh, high-quality ingredients right on our doorstep. I take great pride in knowing where my ingredients come from and have a great relationship with all our suppliers. It also means we support local farmers and producers.
A downtime/go-to meal you like to cook/eat at home?
It's hard to beat a classic roast dinner. This comforting, hearty meal has everything you could want - delicious roasted meat, flavourful vegetables, and sides. While chicken can be a bit ordinary on its own, I love to elevate it by stuffing it with herbs, lemon, or butter under the skin. And of course, there are so many delicious options for sides, from cauliflower cheese to braised red cabbage, honey-roasted parsnips, and crispy roast potatoes.
