It really doesn’t matter what time of year, or how cold it is; on nearly every occasion I’ve been to Lynmouth, I’ve stopped off at the The Rising Sun to sit outside with a drink.
It’s a popular spot, outside this thatched 14th century pub; there are a few tables, and even just perched on the wall by the entrance, everyone likes to gather around, side by side, watching the comings and goings along the harbour front.
This is a pub that draws you over from your seaside wanderings. It’s in the perfect position, at the foot of the tree-covered cliffs, right by the fishing boats and harbour wall. It’s a beautiful, traditional thatched building that blends into its surroundings.
Lynmouth was beloved by the Romantic poets, indeed Shelley spent his honeymoon here, and it is a timeless spot, one where you can ponder over the past, and imagine village life, over the centuries, the sea which has such a big influence, so close at hand. Nowadays Lynmouth is filled with holidaymakers and they, and their many four-legged companions, have become part of the scenery, wandering around, enjoying a stroll in this Exmoor town.
So many times I’ve wondered what it’s like to stay in The Rising Sun, so it’s a treat on this occasion to know that I don’t have to walk away after that drink, but that I can linger on as the sun sets and the crowds disperse.
The pub retains its traditional feel, it’s a large bar area but still feels like a cosy bolthole, perfect for a winter retreat. It feels old, thanks to the passageways, staircases and different levels throughout the building. Up a staircase and I’m in my room, tucked under the eaves. It’s comfortable and quiet and has a latch window with the most stunning view over Lynmouth Bay to the cliffs of Countisbury. Sitting in the window, the thatch just above, that view is timeless and majestic. I can quite imagine Shelley here, writing in one of these rooms, being inspired by the same scene.
READ MORE: Why you should visit Lynton and Lynmouth in Devon
This is a dog friendly inn and although the main dining room is kept dog free, furry friends are allowed elsewhere. Evening dining is very relaxed despite being a hive of activity, this is clearly a very popular place for both locals and visitors. The menu has pub classics to please but also a lovely range of specials created by chef, including options for vegetarians. Bearing in mind the location, it’s great to see a plentiful array of fish dishes, including Devon lobster, hake, sea trout and line-caught mackerel – which is cured and served with a gooseberry ketchup and pickled cucumber as a starter. A pan-fried fillet of hake comes with an Asian-inspired lemongrass and ginger broth, it’s bright, flavourful and really complements the fish without overpowering it. The fish is great, but meat-lovers will revel in the Exmoor beef burger or the sirloin steak served with garlic infused tomato – which is also available as a popular sharing platter.
Is there room for a dessert? Oh yes. The salted chocolate delice with amaretto toffee sauce, ice cream and chocolate honeycomb is really lovely.
I would imagine that all who stay here enjoy a good night’s sleep, at night it is so calm and quiet, with just the sound of the sea to accompany you as you drift off in a comfy bed.
Early the next day the waterfront begins to come alive again and the occasional walker pops in to join guests as we relax over a hearty breakfast. It’s that Rising Sun spell again - no doubt they’ve also fallen for the charm of this much-loved pub and its romantic setting.