Dartmoor is all things to all people. Some like the bleak wilderness of the western edge near Princetown and Tavistock, others are happiest in the rugged and untamed north. But for many, the slightly leafier east is where it’s at. The town of Moretonhampstead sits nicely here in the less intimidating section of the national park, about six miles from the open moor but with enough pubs, cafes and shops to offer refuge should the wind and the rain pick up (which it will).

Historically, the town was famous for being, well, sedate. I remember my dad and his friend singing: ‘And the lights both went out in Moretonhampstead…’ to the tune of the Bee Gees’ hit (The Lights Went out In) Massachusetts. That might well have been true when my dad and co were teenagers in Devon in the 70s. Things are livelier in Moretonhampstead these days.

The pub scene is hanging on in there, thanks to a steady stream of passing trade and committed locals.

There’s culture, too. Green Hill Arts is the area’s leading gallery, plus you’ll find a thriving artisan community with talented locals turning their hand to making everything from bread to ceramics and shoes.

One of the town's heritage buildings is the old almshouses.One of the town's heritage buildings is the old almshouses. (Image: Photo: Michael Charles / Getty) Moreton has always been good at adapting to the times. After developing as a small market town in the early 13th century, the area became known for cloth manufacturing in the 17th and 18th centuries before the industry eventually gave way to farming and tourism. The past is still present, with much of the town recognised as a conservation area. Historic buildings include the parish church and the almshouses in Cross Street. One of my faves, however, is the much more modern by comparison Moretonhampstead Motor Museum. The eye-catching art deco frontage of the former bus depot, which was built in the 1930s, has been home to 150 vintage cars since 2013.

At the time of writing, the collection, worth £1.5million, is about to go under the hammer and the museum is closing. Founder Frank Loft recently said it was unlikely he would find anyone ‘mad enough to take it on’. It’s a shame because the town also lost the much-loved Miniature Pony Centre last year. Still, attractions the country over are having a tough time, so it’s nothing personal. Besides, there’s enough to dine-out on in Moreton.

The area is famous for its community-oriented foodie businesses, from the traditional (Michael Howard Butchers and Delicatessen) to the more contemporary non-profit Zero Waste shop.

In most cases, customers are served by name and come in to collect their regular orders. It’s a comforting sight in a town that serves this civilised part of Dartmoor very well indeed.

 

Tasty delights at The Van du Pain (Image: Liz Gavrilenk) FOOD AND DRINK

If you’re walking the moors, call in to stock up on food to go. Michael Howard Butchers and Delicatessen (Court Street) sells a full range of meats but also bacon butties, coffee, homemade pasties and deli sandwiches made to order.

Hound of the Baskervilles in Ford Street (inspired by the famous Sherlock Holmes story) specialises in award-winning, Italian-style ice-cream. Try the cherry ripple.

The Van du Pain is parked in town on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. The bread and treats in here are baked nearby by Liz and Laurent Gavrilenk. They do a brioche bun, called semla, filled with marzipan and cream.

Anyway, enough about cakes and stuff. For a hearty meal, including pizzas and fine dining, The Horse (George Street) is a rustic and much-loved pub.

The Central Café (The Square) is friendly and family-run. Berto’s Pizzeria (Cross Street) is a ‘spectacular’ authentic Italian.

 

The White HartThe White Hart (Image: Skim New Media Ltd) WHERE TO STAY

The historic White Hart has just had a half-million-pound refurb after being bought by new owners in February. The 28-bed hotel looks amazing, with rooms as welcoming as the hospitality.

Stay on target with Budleigh Farm. The site offers quality self-catering accommodation, plus two outdoor 50m/100yard ranges, an indoor 25-yard smallbore and 10m indoor air range. 

The Hayloft At Lowton is a nicely renovated first-floor apartment with wood burner. There are gorgeous views and easy access to moor-walking trails, available through marsdens.co.uk.

Treat yourself to a stay at one of the best hotels in the county. Bovey Castle offers guests luxury and indulgence without a hint of stuffiness. Bring the kids and the dog. There are self-catering lodges, too.

The Moorcote country guesthouse, is an Edwardian residence which enjoys an elevated position with views over town and out towards Dartmoor.

 

Green Shoes in MorehampsteadGreen Shoes in Morehampstead (Image: Green Shoes) MORE TO DO

Dive in

If you’re here between May and September, take a dip in the community-run Moretonhampstead pool. As well as lane swimming, there are aqua fit sessions, swimming lessons, swim club and technique coaching. The pool is also available for hire.

Find the perfect pair

Green Shoes in Moretonhampstead is a thriving business with a long list of loyal customers. The team produces well-loved and long-worn bespoke footwear made with the wearer in mind.

Go potty

Vessel Ceramics is a beautiful, open-access studio ‘to meet and make in’. Owner Jilly Russell provides pottery classes, workshops and masterclasses.