Exploring the new Rhins of Galloway Coast Path walking route

The Rhins of Galloway Coast Path is a new long-distance route around Scotland’s most south-westerly peninsula. Starting in Stranraer, it takes in tranquil Luce Bay and the windswept cliffs of the Mull of Galloway, the sandy coves of the west coast, and the sheltered waters of Loch Ryan, rewarding walkers with stunning scenery, amazing wildlife, and fascinating history, as Allan Devlin discovers

The Rhins of Galloway Coast Path is an 83-mile-long circular path around the Rhins peninsula, starting and finishing in Stranraer. Still under construction and fine tuning, the route takes you from the comparatively sheltered east coast around to the wild west coast and down to the sheer cliffs of the Mull of Galloway. With stunning scenery, hidden sandy bays, a coast rich in natural history, history and legends, there’s so much to explore and enjoy.

This walk is the first section of the Coast Path, starting in Stranraer. The town sits at the south end of Loch Ryan: a 13.4 km x 4.8km sea loch which, at its northern mouth, spills out into the North Atlantic. Orientated on a north-south axis with the Rhins peninsula forming its western shore and the Scottish landmass forming its eastern shore, Loch Ryan has provided a sheltered harbour since at least Roman times.

The name Stranraer comes – some people believe - from Scottish Gaelic ‘Stran-as sruthan,’ meaning burn and the second syllable, ‘rear’ (reamhar) which means fat or thick, ‘thick burn’. Others think its ‘ramhar’ which is Irish Gaelic for swarming, so Stranraer could mean ‘burn swarming with fish’. This probably makes more sense, as the burn which Stranraer grew up alongside was full of fish. In days gone by, the fishing (at least for herring in Loch Ryan) was so good that 300 sailing boats could be seen in the bay at one time.

As well as fishing boats, the 1830’s saw regular steam packet trips to Glasgow, Girvan, and Belfast from Stranraer. Following the arrival of the railway in 1861, the town had an official ferry service running across the North Channel to Belfast. In 2011, the ferries stopped operating from Stranraer and moved further up Loch Ryan to Cairnryan.

Fishing boat out of water on the slipway at Glenside (Image: Allan Devlin) The moving of the large ferries from the port has been seen as an opportunity for the town to reconnect with the loch, and there are plans to redevelop the waterfront, with the Rhins of Galloway Coast Path being part of that.

To mark the start and finish of this new circular walk, a striking corten steel archway has been erected beside the Gateway to Galloway Tourist Information Centre on Stranraer seafront. Do be sure to pass under it and pose for photos. The information centre has been built around the older, unusually-shaped, art deco Harbour Master’s office, which also features the iconic Simpson Clock Tower.

From here, walk along the seafront, heading for McCulloch’s Point. Go past Agnew Park, with its palm trees and memorial MV Princess Victoria, one of the first roll-on-roll-off ferries which sank in a storm between Stranraer and Larne in January 1953, claiming more than 130 lives.

The storm, or Great Flood as it’s sometimes called, not only claimed many lives at sea but also along the coast of Scotland, England, Holland, and Belgium. A combination of wind, high spring tides and low air pressure flooded the land up to 5.6 metres above mean sea level. Twenty 20 per cent of Holland ended up under water.

Depending on the tide, just before you get to McCulloch’s Point, you can either head along on shore or follow the way markers up into the trees, which we did, up to a dirt track and another way marker. Head left here and follow the road round onto Larg Road. Go right, down the road onto a path which heads back onto the beach.

It’s now just a matter of following the way markers up to the bridge over Soleburn. Loch Ryan has many claims to fame, one of which is it is home to the only wild oyster bed in Scotland which is fished commercially. It dates back to 1701, when King William III granted a Royal Charter of the oyster bed to the Wallace family. The rights to the oysters have remained with family ever since. Today the oyster bed is carefully managed; only the mature oysters are harvested, with the aim of increasing the population over time. In the cold waters of Loch Ryan, the oyster takes eight years to mature, putting on 11g a year. This is a comparatively long-term and hopefully worthwhile project.

The largest source of fresh water entering Loch Ryan, the Soleburn, brings nutrients into the loch that the oysters need to survive.

Information boards at Wig Bay (Image: Allan Devlin) Leaving the shore, follow the way markers and head up to the side of the A718, and across the Soleburn Bridge. Drop down off the road here and follow the shore northward, to the slipway at Glenside. The slipway was part of RAF Wig Bay, a flying boat base during World War Two. It was built by the Americans and handed to the RAF in March 1942.

You need to rewind here and think about this: the Americans entered the war with the attack on Pearl Harbour on December 7, 1941. So, it took just three months to plan and build a seaplane base with service sheds etc. The flying boats would be brought up the slipway and taken to the service sheds at Glenside. American flying boats were converted for RAF use as well here.

Leaving the war time remains for the moment, from Glenside keep heading northward along the shore of Loch Ryan. Eastward across Loch Ryan, the soft throb of a ferry sitting at Cairnryan has been turned up a notch as it prepares for departure. Northward, entering Loch Ryan between Milleur Point on the Rhins and Finnarts Point on the east side of Loch Ryan, the white super structure of another ferry glistens as it catches the sunlight. Behind the ferry, the white-topped lump that is Ailsa Craig can be seen with the Ayrshire coast and Arran stretching out behind that.

Wig Bay heading along to the Scar (Image: Allan Devlin) After enjoying the view, head to the car park and the information boards on the edge of The Wig. From here, head north-eastward along the beach of Wig Sands, out towards The Scar. On your left, among the long grass, are the remains of a concrete network of hard standing for the flying boats. The flying boats, Sunderlands, Catalinas etc were used for anti-submarine patrols in the North Atlantic.

It’s hard to imagine today, but by January 1945 there were about 1,000 RAF personnel stationed at Wig Bay, and 170 flying boats. One of the personnel was the comedian Tony Hancock, who was assigned to the Marine Craft Section. His duties appear to have been the custody of a heap of coal and a boiler house. He gave himself the grand title of ‘Fuel Controller,’ which he stencilled on the door of his hut. In reality, he was responsible for the very important job of lighting fires in the Nissan huts at RAF Wig Bay, which was described as an ‘icy hell’ during winter.

During the 1950s, the base not only serviced, but also broke up flying boats from all over the world. It finally closed in 1957.

Looking across to Cairnryan (Image: Allan Devlin) Go along to the point where a small brick World War Two observation post is situated. Part of Loch Ryan defences, it faces south down the loch towards Stranraer and was used for mine watching.

There is a wealth of wildlife to watch here, too. Loch Ryan has a rich variety of wild fowl, including guillemots, razorbills, great-crested grebes, red-breasted mergansers, red-throated divers, shags, cormorants, gannets, and wigeon, and The Scar is an important site for nesting terns.

Leaving The Wig behind, head north along the side of Loch Ryan on a well-trodden path. We did not follow the way markers for Kirkcolm here, but carried on until we came to a gate and sign for Kirkcolm Bowling Green put up by Corsewall Farms and Estate. Follow the signs, which head away from the shore and into the trees.

A steady climb now ensues up and over Clachan Hill and down through Dove Cot Plantation. Among the trees, on a good path now, it’s a nice contrast to sea shore. As the name suggests, there is an old 19th Century round Dove Cot hidden in the trees, if you have time to look for it.

Keep to the path, following the signs for the Bowling Green. At the turn off for the bowling green, go straight on over Smithy Bridge and into Kirkcolm and the end of a fine walk on the Rhins of Galloway Coast Path.

The gateway at the start of the Rhins of Galloway Coastal Path in Stranraer (Image: Allan Devlin) WALK THIS WAY

START / FINISH: Stranraer to Kirkcolm

DISTANCE: 8 miles /13 km

APPROX TIME: 4.5 hours

GEAR: Map, camera, binoculars, and something to eat and drink

MAPS: Landranger 82 Stranraer, Glenluce & Surrounding Area, and Explorer 309 Stranraer & the Rhins

GUIDES: Council leaflet ‘Walking in and around Stranraer & the North Rhins’, https://dgtrails.org/rhins-of-galloway-path/development

REFRESHMENTS: Allan recommends The Blue Peter Hotel in Kirkcolm, and Soleburn Garden Centre.

ACCOMMODATION: Hotels, B&Bs in Kirkcolm and Stranraer

NOTES: The 408 bus service from Stranraer to Kirkcolm is not that regular, but can be worked around. Also, there isn’t much parking in Kirkcolm, but there is plenty of parking at The Wig.

Looking across Loch Ryan to the radio mast on Balker Moor (Image: Allan Devlin) The Rover of Lochryan