Few would deny that this summer, so far, has been a bit of a wash out.
June was more grey than sunshine-filled. A three-ish-day-heatwave had us starting to believe that summer had finally arrived, but the mercury soon plummeted, leaving us a confused mess of layers in inclement conditions (a winter coat with flipflops? Seems about right.)
So those days when the sun actually shines are to be seized. And wrung for every last drop of fun.
Which is exactly what we did in Harwich.
The Pier at Harwich consists of two historic buildings standing proudly on the Harwich quay side, overlooking (as the name suggests) Ha'Penny Pier.
The main building, built in the 1850s, houses the brasserie on the first-floor. There you'll find the freshest fish (landed on the harbour literally opposite) a gorgeous grill menu (warning, when they say the lamb comes up large... believe them!) and plenty of modern classics.
The balcony - for outdoor drinks as well as dining - offers estuary views from every table. And the coming and goings from the working docks can be observed while you sip on a cocktail or two. A word to the wise on this. Downstairs there's the ground-floor Scandinavian-inspired bar and terrace called the Navyärd, which is has a gin library containing more than 150 types of gin (at last count!), split simply over four shelves.
And at Navyärd they make all their gin and tonics ‘Spanish style’ using double (50ml) measures served over ice in goblets and accompanied by Fevertree mixers.
So it'd be rude not to at least have a cheeky Little Bird or Copperhead...
But anyway. I digress.
When it comes to sleeping off your dinner and drinks, there are 14 rooms at this small but oh so chic AA 4 star hotel.
Seven are on the second floor, above the brassiere, most of which overlook the estuary.
And the rest are in the second building next door, which was formerly the Angel public house. All are individually styled (and of different sizes and prices) to match the seascape and take full advantage of the brilliant light that is an added bonus of staying on the coast.
We spent the night in the Mayflower. A room that makes a serious statement. You can enjoy stunning views across the harbour and estuary from the seating area, complete with a working telescope (quite a source of fascination for our eight-year-old lad!)
The super-king size bed was exceptionally comfortable (with a cosy sofa bed for our boy). The bath was sizeable, the walk-in shower spacious and the sofa satisfyingly plump.
And I can attest to the fact that are few finer ways to spend a Sunday evening than watching the setting sun on the Stour estuary while tucked up in bed
Especially when you've spent the day spotting seals. Something anyone who is planning a stay at the Pier should 100 per cent consider booking too.
We jumped on the yellow boat which leaves twice a day (tides and weather permitting) from Ha'Penny Pier for a two hour (ours was actually more like two and a half hour) trip through the Walton backwaters to Oakley Creek.
There are currently around 250 seals in the Hamford Water Nature Reserve - a healthy breeding population which has risen from only five in 1986.
The team offer a money back guarantee if you don't spot any seals - but that was not something we had to worry about.
We saw at least 40. Many of them heavily pregnant sunbathing on the mudbanks. And lots of pups being none-too-gently dissuaded from swimming up to our boat by their mums.
It was an afternoon to remember. For us grown-ups, as well as the little ones.
So whatever the weather does now, summer 2024 began for me in Harwich. Seals, seafood, sunsets... what more do you need?
milsomhotels.com/the-pier
sealwatching.co.uk/
