London becomes a different city in the summer. Stroll around Covent Garden in the sunshine and you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d been transported to somewhere in mainland Europe as cafes and restaurants spill out on to the streets, packed with customers making the most of the balmy afternoons. Everything seems more vibrant, louder, more energetic. The atmosphere is buzzing and busy and hectic and hot.
How wonderful then, after a long day of shopping and sightseeing in 20-plus degree heat to step in to the calm and cool interior of One Aldwych. One of the city’s rare, still privately owned and run five-star hotels, One Aldwych has seen many transformations since it was built in 1907, originally to house The Morning Post newspaper, with the printing press taking over the basement which is now the hotel’s swimming pool.
Designed by Anglo-French architects, Mewes & Davis – who also designed The Ritz, the building which stands today is still one of the most historically important examples of Edwardian architecture. Walking from the Southbank over the bridge, you can’t miss its imposing, triangular shape, entirely independent of any other buildings and standing proud on its mini-island site.
After The Morning Post was sold in 1927, the building was bought by the Inveresk Paper Company who owned the Illustrated London News and The Tatler among others and from then it housed a variety of industries from The Ministry of Defence to a popular brasserie. Finally, in 1998, One Aldwych opened as a hotel and in 2019, underwent a complete renovation with suites and bedrooms designed by Robert Angell, who also worked with Lime Wood here in Hampshire. What stands today is a beautifully luxurious yet quirky hotel which oozes character and charm.
Everyone is greeted with a warm welcome at The Lobby Bar, which serves expertly crafted cocktails and light bites. British produce is celebrated, and we were intrigued to try a Cornish rosé alongside our salmon poke bowl at lunch, it was excellent. All the furniture here is British made too as well as the extra little touches such as the handmade throws by Skye Weavers in Scotland and the Mitchell & Peach goodies in the bathrooms made in Kent. This is a true British establishment, a place to really showcase the finest of what the country can offer.
Dotted around the hotel are 350 works of art and sculpture to admire and entertain. From Tracy Davidson’s Toast, which can be seen in Indigo, the hotel’s restaurant, which is literally made from slices of burnt toast, to the giant boatman sculpture sitting behind the bar, oars raised majestically into the air, around every corner is an element of surprise. Even the afternoon tea offering brings an opportunity for wonder as it is themed on Roald Dahl’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Culture is clearly celebrated here, and further enhanced with the hotel’s latest experiences for guests, The Curators.
To really get to know the city of London you need to immerse yourself in its history, its culture, its past and its present and what better way to do that than by being guided by experts in their fields. This is where The Curators comes in. One Aldwych has partnered with four wonderfully talented Londoners who will take you off the beaten track on history tours, behind the scenes theatre trips, pop music meanders and more.
Silvia Melchior from the nearby Donmar Warehouse has been delighting guests since the programme’s launch, taking visitors behind the curtains and inviting them to attend the Donmar Director’s Forums, with a post-show Q&A and chance to meet the cast. While if history is more your thing, Dr Matthew Green, historian and author, will bring London’s social past to life as he explains how the arrival of the ‘bitter Muhammedan gruel’ in the 17th century transformed the face of the city. For music lovers, Victoria Broackes, best known for co-curating the fastest-selling and most visited exhibition in the V&A’s history, David Bowie Is, offers guests a choice of three walking tours around the West End, discovering its cultured past, from the bustling streets of theatreland to David Bowie’s rise to superstardom and the ‘Square Mile’ as it was in 1600, when William Shakespeare was one of its most famous residents. Or for something unique silhouettist Charles Burns, who cuts intricate profiles including for the late Queen Elizabeth and President Madela, will take you on a stroll along the Strand for a detailed history of silhouette galleries and studios that used to be concentrated in the local area, plus of course you can sit for your own personal cutting over a cocktail back in the bar.
Having these knowledgeable experts guide you around London is incredibly freeing. As you blindly follow through side streets and back streets, you can really focus on the information being shared. An opportunity to slow down amid the hustle and bustle and linger at strange holes on the side of a building, only to be told the fascinating story behind why it came to be there, is a joyful way to experience the capital and an ingenious programme for the hotel to be able to offer guests.
Following our whistlestop tours, we were delighted to be able to ease tired limbs with a gentle swim, sauna and steam and our serenely decorated rooms were a welcome retreat before we headed out again, equipped with everything you need to be more than comfortable as well as a well-stocked and complimentary mini bar, which was a lovely touch.
One Aldwych is ideally situated for spending time in Covent Garden but if you’re looking for more than just a bolthole, you will most certainly be checking in to the right place here.
Stays at One Aldwych start from £650 per night on a room only basis. onealdwych.com
