We take a road trip around Rochdale, Oldham and Bury to meet some of the area’s most interesting people including Julie Hesmondhalgh. We’ve also found some great places for you to eat and stay and brilliant things to do
Bury, Oldham and Rochdale are neighbouring towns to the north east of Manchester and, between them, they have some record-breaking innovations. Oldham saw the birth of the first test tube baby, Rochdale the birth of the Co-operative movement and Bury was the birthplace of the Flying Shuttle, a major cornerstone in the Industrial Revolution.
In more recent years, all three have had investment programmes, providing new townscapes, housing and retail opportunities. There are chain stores, independent shops and, of course, markets. Each one is worth a visit. They all have their own unique character, although the best known is probably Bury Market, which welcomes coachloads of visitors from across the UK.
One of the most important historic buildings in Rochdale is the Town Hall – which Hitler is said to have planned to dismantle it brick by brick and take it to Germany had the war ended differently. It has just re-opened after an ambitious restoration programme. Tours are offered and The Martlet Kitchen is on site for delicious food. If you want to see the famous peregrines that live in the clock tower, you can do so by clicking on the webcam.
Families are increasingly choosing to make their home in these towns. They have excellent transport links and a variety of housing from Victorian terraces to luxurious rural retreats. The area’s state and private schools have been scored highly by Ofsted, with many having higher than average GCSE results.
There is plenty of moorland for outdoor pursuits and, in total, more than 40 parks and green spaces – many of them holding the prestigious Green Flag award.
Julie Hesmondhalgh knows a thing or two about campaigns. The Accrington-born actor was a star of the ITV drama Mr Bates v The Post Office which catapulted that issue into the nation's consciousness and she has now spearheaded a campaign of her own.
Along with husband Ian Kershaw she has led the efforts to re-open the Oldham Coliseum Theatre which was closed last year.
‘Isn’t it funny how surprised we are when a campaign achieves what it sets out to do? When the council told us we should change our name from Save Oldham Coliseum to something else because we had succeeded in saving it, we were all a bit surprised. It just shows what perseverance and the superpower of optimism can do,’ says Julie.
The campaign to save the Oldham Coliseum launched when the Arts Council withdrew its funding. The council had agreed to build a newer, much smaller, theatre but the people of Oldham realised they wanted their old theatre to be refurbished and stay where it was – at the heart of the community.
The group organised petitions and sent out emails and letters to various bodies, as well as stars of the acting world such as Emma Thompson, Christopher Eccleston, Suranne Jones and Maxine Peake.
‘The closure left a huge hole in the cultural landscape,’ Julie said. ‘Art matters, especially in towns like Oldham. The Coliseum is a place of history, heritage, togetherness, diversity and enormous civic pride.
‘The Coliseum was a destination venue bringing people into the town centre and was a big employer for artists and technicians, staff and creatives – off and on stage – and a training ground for many. But, most importantly, it was a place of joy, delight and storytelling and connection.’
Originally built as a circus and later converted into a theatre, the Coliseum has hosted a star-studded ensemble of past performers, including luminaries like Minnie Driver, Ralph Fiennes, and Sian Philips.
Julie, who, along with the people of Oldham, celebrated the campaign’s success with an outdoor party, with dancers and a brass band, added: ‘The support we received was wonderful. After all, the theatre is over 135 years old and greats like Charlie Chaplin appeared here; as well as launching the career of many actors and writers, including Ian’s. Now, a £10 million refurbishment programme can begin and we will open with a panto next year.’
The Rochdale Field Naturalists are celebrating their 150th anniversary this year and Peter Knowles, who co-chairs the society with Linda Turner, is convinced there is no reason why it shouldn’t reach another 150.
‘People are noticing their environment and they want to help improve it for our local fauna and flora,’ says Peter who organises family-friendly events like Spot the Wildflower Walks and river cleaning.
‘We also organise walks, talks and coach trips for members; we all have specific interests – you can tell someone’s speciality on a walk: birdwatchers always make sure they’re at the front and flower specialists walk slowly inspecting the ground. We send our data to the Greater Manchester Ecology Unit. Unlike our predecessors, we no longer press flowers or shoot things. The only thing we shoot is our cameras, although, just like them, we do pore over books to identify our finds,’ says Linda.
The society cleared an area at Spotlands, planting a wildflower meadow and were rewarded with the arrival of the Brown Argos butterfly, seen for the first time in Rochdale.
‘Rochdale is a good place to be a field naturalist. We’re surrounded by moorland and although I’m born and bred here, I’ve been on walks that I never knew existed, so I don’t think we’ll be running out of places to explore any time soon,’ says Linda.
rochdalefieldnaturalists.org.uk
It can all get a bit Devil Wears Prada in Rochdale when designers from top fashion houses such as Ralph Lauren and Louis Vuitton visit British heritage brand, Millerain.
That’s because Millerain, in the same family for eight generations is the world’s leading manufacturer of waxed cotton and the fashion world has discovered it simply can’t live without it.
‘It was thrilling to see Taylor Swift on the front page of The New York Times wearing a Ralph Lauren design made with Millerain,’ says sales manager, Adam Getty who provides material to global fashion houses as well as British brands such as Jigsaw, Burberry, Barbour, Marks and Spencer and Patrick Grant’s Blackburn-based Community Clothing.
‘We seasonally launch our new materials internationally but fashion designers often come to Rochdale to discuss which fabric would best suit their designs. Our waxed fabric is a British institution for country pursuits: everyone from the monarch downwards wears a waxed cotton jacket. They become family heirlooms and so the lived-in look is desirable,’ says Adam.
‘That’s true,’ agrees Adam’s fellow sales manager, Mike Callaghan. ‘However, fashion houses want fashion with function, so we developed a super new machine washable waxed cotton. We also operate a bespoke in-house dying service, as well as producing bespoke patterns.’
‘Chairman, Michael Miller is always open to new innovations. We’re currently undergoing a huge site expansion, which is good for us and good for Rochdale. We also make motorcycle wear, marquees and sails and have a shop where the public can buy smaller pieces of cloth. We’re proud of our heritage but we are always looking forwards,’ says Adam.
britishmillerain.com
Hollingworth Lake Activity Centre, Hollingworth, Rochdale
The centre offers many water sports including sailing, windsurfing and kayaking and can also accommodate those with disabilities. This autumn taster sessions will include, family paddleboarding until October 26 and adult paddleboarding until November 30. If that all sounds too strenuous, relax by taking a tour aboard the Lady Katherine passenger boat.
Rochdale Pioneers Museum, Rochdale
It’s 180 years since The Rochdale Pioneers set up their Co-operative Society, so it’s a good time to celebrate by visiting the Rochdale Pioneers Museum on Toad Lane. It’s stuffed full of interesting things to see, including a recreation of the original shop. A celebratory theatre production of Commonground will be held on September 15.
The Met, Bury
An award-winning live music venue, with performance spaces and two theatre bars. There is always a packed programme with music, theatre and family-friendly events. September events include The Swing Commanders, Paddy McGuiness and The Peatbog Faeries. There are several workshops too: September sees Movers and Shakers for young children.
Stonerig Raceway, Lees, Oldham
A Scalextric racing track with seven themed tracks, with the chance to experience Formula One and Touring Car simulation. Children under adult supervision are allowed but they must be 11 and fit the physical requirements to use the simulator. There is a free seating area for those who prefer to just watch.
THREE PLACES TO STAY
Winner of the Best of the Best Travellers’ Choice Award 2023. Rooms include family accommodation and a Lodge Annex is perfect for small groups. Two restaurants serve Italian and British food and light dishes can be enjoyed in the bar area. theroyaltobyhotel.co.uk
A family-owned hotel, set in pretty gardens and surrounded by stunning views, it offers a variety of accommodation, including a country cottage and three shepherds’ huts. There is an on-site restaurant and a private dining room. grainsbarhotel.co.uk
An extensive range of rooms with facilities such as drench showers and Sky television. The hotel also has a gym and an indoor swimming pool. A Best of British menu is on offer at the on-site pub and grill. village-hotels.co.uk
