If you came across The Pony while driving through the Chew Valley, you could easily be forgiven for barely giving it a second glance and passing on by. From the outside, there’s little to set it apart from a run-of-the-mill country pub, and while the clean white frontage is pleasant and welcoming enough, it’s probably not something you’d be rushing to post on your Instagram. Looks can be deceiving, however, because there’s nothing run-of-the-mill about The Pony.
To put it into context, The Pony is the reincarnation of The Pony and Trap - the gastropub which was relaunched in 2006 by brother and sister team Josh and Holly Eggleton and went on to win national acclaim, as well as a host of awards, including a Michelin star in 2011, which it retained until it closed during the first Coronovirus lockdown in 2020. The Pony and Trap never reopened, but instead underwent an almost three-year refurb and reinvention (some of which was documented on an episode of the BBC’s Hidden World of Hospitality with Tom Kerridge), reopening in 2023 as multi-faceted culinary destination, The Pony. The work included not only creating a bigger, brighter restaurant that doubles as an event space/wedding venue but also landscaped grounds, a kitchen garden, and a cookery school where you can learn the tricks of the trade from Josh himself.
The new restaurant is a remarkable space. It feels cliched to describe it as breath-taking, but I would defy anyone to walk in and not be wowed by the seemingly unending view of the gardens and valley visible through the wall of floor to ceiling glass, which opens up on warmer days to create an inside-outside dining room. Suitably impressed by the setting our attention turned to the menu. It’s immediately clear that there’s a big emphasis on provenance and the use of local produce wherever possible, with details of the suppliers on the back of the menu, as well as a list of the ingredients that have been picked from the garden. While we choose we nibble on home-made focaccia, and gougère topped with rarebit and a sliver of pickled walnut. The focaccia is good, but the gougère are incredible with warm, oozy cheese encased in perfectly crisp choux pastry. Left to my own devices I could devour a basketful, so it’s probably good that there’s just one each.
Keen to try some of the homegrown produce I decide to start with the Pony Garden leeks, mussels and vinaigrette - a take on the classic leek vinaigrette. The leeks are wonderfully soft and sweet, slathered in the richest, creamiest vinaigrette I’ve ever tasted, with plump, juicy mussels, and a few shards of crispy kale to add some crunch. The beetroot Carpaccio across the table is all shades of pinks and white and is so pretty it could pass as a dessert. It’s a perfectly choreographed plate with earthy beetroot, creamy, salty ewe’s curd, sweet juicy pear, the warm nuttiness of walnut and just a whisper of smoke from the dressing.
My main course of pheasant is proof of the talent in the kitchen. Pheasant isn’t the most forgiving of meats, but it’s cooked perfectly. The contrasting flavours of the game, sharp pickled apple and sweet onion puree set the tastebuds alive, and I am particularly enamoured with the crunchy slivers of squash from the garden. My dining companion's cod yields to the fork in perfect white flakes that fall away into a silky caramelised whey sauce, which is creamy, with just a hint of sweetness that finishes on the palate with a slight tang. Pickled cockles add little pops of sharpness that cut through the richness. It would be foolish to overlook the side dishes on offer. Marmite roasted heritage carrots are a revelation. I may never eat a Marmite-less carrot again. But it’s the dauphinoise potatoes that really steal the show. Whatever you order for your main dish - order the dauphinoise. Order one each, because the layers of soft potato, and rich creamy, cheesy sauce are so utterly delicious and and more-ish that you will not want to share. You can thank me later.
All the puds sound very tempting but my choice is made by the charming Richard who has been looking after us. 'It has to be the chocolate fondant', he says. And he’s not wrong. This isn’t an ordinary chocolate fondant - sure there’s the rich, dark chocolatiness, and the warm oozing centre that’s just the right side of bitter, but there’s a heart of salted caramel too that’s sweet and decadent and all kinds of yummy. On the side is a beetroot and vanilla ice cream. It looks amazing, adding a splash of colour to the plate, and adds a creaminess and almost savoury earthy note, that balances out the sweetness brilliantly. The choux bun (another Richard recommendation) is equally wonderful with a crisp shell stuffed with a luxurious hazelnut cream. On the side there’s the genius addition of a slightly salty miso ice cream.
Josh and Holly’s decision to reinvent the Pony and Trap was certainly bold, and probably pretty risky too, for a myriad of reasons. But it seems like it’s paid off. After all, you might be able to take the Michelin out of the restaurant, but you can’t take the talent and passion out of the team behind it. And that’s really what The Pony is all about - a passion for food, for local produce, and for making sure that everyone who comes through the doors feels welcome, and has a truly memorable experience.
The Pony. Chew Valley, Moorledge Road, Newtown, Chew Magna, Bristol BS40 8TQ. theponychewvalley.co.uk
