The curiosity, the interest and the beauty of Creech St Michael are in the labyrinth of transport networks that intertwine around the village; a complex mixture of roads, railways, rivers, motorways and canals (some going somewhere some not) producing a maze of bridges and aqueducts. Spaghetti junction indeed. But none more charming and serene than the Bridgwater and Taunton Canal.

Today you will find the occasional boat, some canoeists and a few stand-up paddle boarders on it, plus the wildlife of course, but also many walkers, joggers and cyclists on the towpath. One of the canal's highlights is the unique Somerset Space Walk; a scale model of the sun can be found at Maunsel Lock, with planets set along the towpath for six miles in both directions, demonstrating the scale of the solar system.

The 14 mile canal was opened in 1827, its principal purpose was to get coal and iron to Taunton from across the Bristol Channel in South Wales, the return journey would be a cargo of agricultural goods. It was taking over the function of the river Tone that also goes through Creech St Michael – boats then would stop at nearby Ham and the cargo finish its journey on land. The railway came along and trumped both the river and the canal. Now a busy railway line runs through the village as well. By the turn of the 20th century, commercial carrying on the canal had all but ended and the rural waterway found a new role as a water supply. The M5 motorway that straddles the parish was added to the transport mix in the 60s and 70s. Surely Creech St Michael has more bridges than any other Somerset village.

A route perhaps less well-known but which actually starts in Creech is the Chard canal. Whilst you have to give credit to the people behind the many major engineering successes of the Victorian era – the engineers, the workers and the investors – the Chard canal was a failure. The construction went over budget and it never made any money. The proverbial white elephant. The tub boat canal, over 13 miles long, involved four aqueducts, three (long) tunnels and four inclined planes to reach Chard. What’s more it was part of a further pipe dream to link the Bristol Channel with the English Channel through waterways. It opened in 1842 and was closed just 26 years later. Still visible is the start, the three arched aqueduct over the Tone and tunnels/inclines further on down the line.

The attractions of the Bridgwater & Taunton canal and its bridges, indeed Creech St Michael itself, were an inspiration for Harry Frier who completed more than 2,000 watercolour paintings of the area with almost photographic precision. Harry, one of the county’s best known artists, moved to Somerset in 1883, married a Creech girl called Kate and lived in the village for a while. Despite how prolific he was and his reputation today he died destitute in Taunton Workhouse in 1921 but was buried in the village churchyard.

Another notable 19th century resident was the Revd Henry Cresswell – the vicar from 1813 to 1849. He had a reputation for consuming vast amounts of gin at the Bell, getting into fist fights, and his attraction towards the local southwest sport of cudgel - a violent affair in which opponents stood on a stage and hit each other with sticks to draw blood (it’s thought that the giant of Cerne Abbas is holding a cudgel from the ‘game’). Apparently when the Bishop of Bath and Wells came to Creech St Michael to talk to the cleric about his escapades. Henry said: "I have preached to them, I have argued with them, now I am trying to beat it into them."

Nowadays, inhabitants prefer a peaceful stroll along the canal towpath.

Let Me Out!

Talking of labyrinths, Creech St Michael boasts its very own set of escape rooms. People can escape with their lives from the study of a serial killer or embark upon a magical adventure to destroy the philosopher’s stone – in all there are seven different themed rooms.

Lock and Code, based in the old paper mill, is run by Matt Russe, a former primary school teacher, who incidentally took his wife on a first date to an escape room, since then they have played a couple of hundred games together. Matt said: “I think it’s good clean fun, playtime for adults. It’s play but it’s make-believe for all ages. Everyone likes puzzles, well a lot of people like puzzles and a lot of people like stories and you just put them together; what’s more you’re the main character in the story.”

There is corporate use for team building and school activities but largely it’s families and groups of friends. The most common age group is 20-30s but they have had 80 year olds. Together with a couple of friends, I had a go. Starting off in handcuffs, we used tape measures, amputated fingers (plastic), Einstein, gravity, torches, opened numerical locks, discovered a secret room, handled severed heads (plastic) and generally put our brains to the test. Despite help from the control room, we were rubbish and failed (just) – but seriously good fun.

Craft and Produce Fair

On the third Saturday of the month the Village Hall is host to a local produce and craft market from ten until one. On the food side there are fruit, vegetables, jams, cakes and a local pork butcher, whilst village craft designers sell their candles, soaps and much more. The kitchen is open, so punters can buy a tea or coffee, or even treat themselves to a full English breakfast. Organiser, Jan King, said: “People come to meet up, there’s lots of laughter and jokes – a really nice community event.”

INFO

Parish population: 2,951 (2021) though this includes nearby hamlets such as Ham, Creech Heathfield, Adsborough and Langaller.

STAY

 Creechbarn Bed and Breakfast is located just by the canal in a quiet spot behind the 12th century church. It is ‘a family home with rooms for our guests, not a Guest House or Hotel.’ There are two rooms, one ensuite. Contact 01823 443955.