The arrival of summer sees the hedgerows come alive with foxgloves, pennywort, speedwell and ragged robin, while the fields fill with buttercups and it’s time to take the opportunity to head for the hills and take in some Somerset’s stunning coastal views, and what better place to start than with a ride on an open-top bus along the backbone of Exmoor. Throughout the season, the Exmoor Coaster travels from Blue Anchor to County Gate and beyond, making one-way long rambling walks easy and affordable – it is included in the £2 fare cap. This walk takes in sections of the South West Coast Path (SWCP) and the Coleridge Way delivering everything from open hills and rolling farmland with stunning views across the Bristol Channel, to old carriage routes and shady woodland paths with crystal clear streams. It even includes St Beuno’s Church in Culbone, often credited as the ‘smallest complete parish church in the country’. Pre-Norman in origin, it sits in the woods, and is only accessible on foot.
THE WALK
1. Begin at County Gate where you carefully cross the road and take the footpath ahead of you with the coast on your left. Ignore the sign heading downhill to the SWCP and take the higher path instead. Stay on this path and cross the track at Yenworthy, where you can see Sugarloaf Hill to your left. At the end of the path take the left turn down hill and after a short distance turn right where it is signed as the SWCP (this higher loop of the coast path offers great views and variety).
2. When you reach Broomstreet Farm, follow the path between the farm buildings and onto Yearnor Mill Lane. The lane curves to the right and after a short way there is a path to the left signed with the National Trails acorn symbol and saying Porlock via Silcombe Farm Go through the gate and on to an old carriage track. You are now on the SWCP and the Coleridge Way. The track (still Yearnor Mill Lane) takes you to Silcombe Farm where again you pass between the farm buildings before turning back to your left as you leave them.
3. Where the lane curves to the right, there is a public footpath to the left signposted to Culbone Church and Porlock Weir. Here you are staying on the higher SWCP but leaving the Coleridge Way. After about a third of a mile you reach a footpath sign with Culbone Church to the right and the route straight on enabling you to join the lower SWCP. Continue straight and follow the route into Culbone Wood where you join the lower SWCP and double back to reach the church.
4. Leaving the church, notice the firs and exotic pines on the hillside of Yearnor Wood ahead of you. These show where Ashley Combe, an Italianate style mansion with breath-taking views across the Bristol Channel, once stood. It was the home of Ada King, Countess of Lovelace and daughter of the celebrated poet, Lord Byron. A gifted mathematician and writer, she worked with Charles Babbage on the early mechanical general-purpose computer, the Analytical Engine, in the 1840s, earning the title of the ‘first computer programmer’.
5. As you continue on the path, you pass through two tunnels. These were once part of whole network or tunnels built to enable tradesmen using carts to deliver supplies to the Manor without being visible to the occupants! At the end of this path you reach the Toll House for the Worthy Toll Road (once the lodge for the Manor), which enables cars to avoid driving up (or down) the infamous Porlock Hill.
6. Follow the SWCP signs and you’ll see Porlock Marsh ahead as you head down into the village of Porlock Weir with its quayside cottages and bustling harbourside cafés, hotels and pubs. Leave Porlock Weir on the road, but after a short way there is a set of steps down to the beach. Continue following the SWCP though the Marshes, passing the much photographed ‘skeleton tree’ and ‘petrified forest’ until you see the boardwalk (8) heading towards the sea on your left. Follow the SWCP inland here until you see a post etched with Bossington and the SWCP to the left and Porlock straight on. Head back into Porlock on this path until it joins Sparkhayes Lane, which takes you back into the village.
COMPASS POINTS
Start point: County Gate Car Park, Exmoor, Countisbury, Lynton EX35 6NY
Getting there: Exmoor Coaster open top bus from Porlock. Check timetables at www.firstbus.co.uk/adventures-bus/services/exmoor-coaster as the level of service varies throughout the year.
Parking in Porlock: Porlock Central Car Park (long stay), 2 Pollards Ct, Porlock, Minehead TA24 8PH
Map:
OS Explorer OL9: Exmoor
Refreshments and facilities:
There are public toilets and plenty of shops, cafés and pubs in Porlock before you set out, and there is also the Rambler’s Rest café and public toilets at the County Gate Car Park. During the walk, there are public toilets, shops, cafés and pubs at Porlock Weir.
Practicalities:
The route is 8.2 miles (13.2km) and takes about 6 hours with breaks.
The ground is mostly flat or gently sloping down, but it does include some short steep sections (both up and down). There are gates and stiles and some short flights of steps along the route.
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Somerset & Exmoor Coast Festival
The journey from County Gate to Porlock is also the culmination of the 80 Miles in Eight Days Challenge taking place during the Somerset & Exmoor Coast Festival between September 21 -29
The Festival opens with a 100km Ultra from Minehead to Brean and a Marathon from Bridgwater to Brean, both organised by Channel Events. In Bridgwater on September 21, Fuse will be organising day into night activities including a free immersive, interactive fire and light trail, with performers, installations, window displays, stalls, secret locations and projections. At the close of the Festival on Sunday September 29, Porlock Information Centre is organising a shanty band performance with food and drinks available in Porlock, followed by a Fuse Nightwalk on Porlock Marsh with outdoor arts, sound sculpture, performance, light sculptures, and poetry and spoken word. Somerset businesses will be celebrating the coast throughout the nine days, with events ranging from arts trails and Somerset Art Weeks events, to walks, tours and performances. somersetcoastfestival.co.uk
