I love a late summer barbecue. The sun, the smells, the socialising, and of course the gorgeous food with that unmistakeable, inimitable smoky char. Delicious. What I am infinitely less enthused by is actually delivering said barbecue. I’d much rather be relaxing with a G&T than sweating over a grill. And I definitely do not enjoy clearing up the mess afterwards. So, for me, the No-Dig Dining Dome experience at Homewood is the perfect solution. The glorious country house hotel, tucked away between Bath and Frome is full of witty little touches that set it apart, like, the help-yourself jars of pick and mix at reception, the giant teddy bear and life-size giraffe grass sculptures on the lawns, the yellow submarine at the end of the drive and, of course, the dining domes.
There are four domes set up on the lawn (which migrate to the hotel terrace in winter), each seating up to eight guests, and each impeccably styled to create your own private dining oasis, with a “dome butler” to cater to your every need. The No-Dig Dining Dome feasting experience highlights the produce grown in the hotel’s gardens, and after a refreshing gin and tonic (made with Homewood’s own gin – of course) we are escorted to the gardens for a tour of the beds and polytunnels. We’re met by Darren the gardener, who explains about the 'no dig' philosophy and how it enriches the soil, and therefore the produce grown in it. Our mini guest is even allowed to pick a tomato – one of the first of the season at time of writing – and he bites into it with a satisfied 'Mmmmm.'
When we return, Joe the chef is busily slaving away at the hot grill, and our charming host Costa swiftly appears with a plate of canapes – delicate seed crackers loaded with a sweet tomato balsamic, salty goats cheese and pickled magnolia. It’s a delectable little mouthful that sets us up beautifully for what’s to come. All the dishes are to share, and first up is a bowl full of buffalo mozzarella, no-dig heritage tomatoes, red onion, baby basil and pomegranate molasses. It’s the perfect dish for a warm, sunny day – with a symphony of flavours and textures all working in harmony. There’s sweetness from the tomatoes, offset by a touch of acidity from the onions. The cheese is soft and creamy, while pomegranate seeds add crunch and little bursts of fruitiness. Alongside there’s a homemade rosemary focaccia, with is soft, warm and oh-so more-ish. It takes all our willpower to stop eating to make sure we save room for what’s to come.
It's billed as a feasting menu – and it certainly lives up to its name. We’re presented with platefuls piled high with grilled gorgeousness. There’s little pots of succulent pulled spare rib pork slathered in a tangy, spicy sauce that keeps you coming back for just one more bite. Chicken breasts are served laden with feta and olives and oregano and just a hint of paprika, and staying on the Greek theme there’s a take on a moussaka in the form of a meltingly soft aubergine stuffed with lentils and vegetables and topped with cheese. A sea bass is cooked perfectly – no easy feat over flames – flaking at the merest suggestion of a fork, with the delicate flavour brightened by a zingy, herby chermoula. My favourite however, is the flat iron steak. Ruby red in the middle with a wonderful dark crust, it’s hot and heady with cajun spices and I love it.
There’s a plethora of splendid side dishes too, all showcasing the garden produce. There’s Charlotte potatoes with confit garlic and mint, as well as beets which are sweet and earthy and made even better with a drizzle of honey from the Homewood bees. A barbecue cabbage, coated in nduja butter is a triumph, proving the worth of this often underrated veg, while a salad of fennel, pomegranate and mint is bursting with freshness and is the perfect foil to all the richness elsewhere.
The glorious finale is a tower of Eton mess, studded with shards of honeycomb and served with a jug of tropical soup alongside. It might just be the best Eton mess I’ve ever tasted. The strawberries have that intense strawberriness that only comes from homegrown fruit, the meringue is just the right amount of crunchy and the cream is pillowy soft and not too sweet. A drizzle of tropical soup over the top, and it’s sunshine and summer in a bowl. Miraculously (and much to the amazement of Costa) we finish every last mouthful.
It's a really well judged menu, all executed faultlessly, and with something for everyone to enjoy. The service is impeccable too, attentive but never overbearing, and warm and friendly from start to finish.
The setting, the food, the food, the atmosphere makes for a truly unique experience. I think it’s fair to say that there’s no place like dome!
The No-Dig Feasting Domes cost £75 per person (minimum of 4 people).
homewoodbath.co.uk