Remember, remember, the fifth of November,
Gunpowder, treason and plot.
I see no reason why gunpowder treason
Should ever be forgot.
And indeed, we haven’t. Countless generations have recited this rhyme since Guy (Guido) Fawkes was discovered beneath the Houses of Parliament with enough explosives to blow up the building and everyone inside it - including King James I.
Most of us can recount the story of Fawkes’ role in the Gunpowder Plot, and recall the main protagonist, Robert Catesby, but it’s a lesser know member of Catesby’s coterie, Ambrose Rookwood, who piques my interest.
Rookwood was a Suffolk man. His family lived at Coldham Hall at Stanningfield in west Suffolk, so it’s there that I’m going for a walk to ‘remember, remember’. But first, a quick reminder of events surrounding November 5, 1605.
It was a dark time in our history. Folk like Warwickshire born and Oxford educated Robert Catesby, who came from a prominent recusant Catholic family, had been persecuted for their beliefs by the fiercely Protestant Elizabeth I, and her successor, James I, showed no signs of easing up on the country’s Catholics.
Catesby had already taken part in the Essex Rebellion in 1601. When he hatched the Gunpowder Plot in 1605, it was planned to be the start of a major rebellion.
The aim was to blow up Parliament during the State Opening of Parliament on 5 November, with James I in attendance, an act Catesby considered justifiable under an ancient right to assassinate a tyrannical ruler.
This would be followed by an uprising in the Midlands, where most of the plotters lived, during which James's nine-year-old daughter, Princess Elizabeth, would be kidnapped and installed as the new head of state.
It was a bold plan that almost came together. It was foiled when Guy Fawkes, who was in charge of the explosives, was discovered on November 4, following an anonymous tip-off, with 36 barrels of gunpowder, enough to reduce the House of Lords to rubble.
He was arrested; the other plotters fled London, but were hunted down. Some were killed, trying to resist, including Catesby. Eight survivors, including Fawkes and Rookwood, faced trial on January 27, 1606; they were convicted and sentenced to be hanged, drawn and quartered.
To celebrate the failure of the Gunpowder Plot and his deliverance from danger, the king passed the Observance of 5 November Act 1605 - a day of special church services, bonfires and fireworks - which remained in force until 1859.
Bonfire Night and the ceremonial burning of a ‘guy’ remains a fixture in the nation’s calendar. Moreover, before each State Opening of Parliament, the Yeomen of the Guard still make a ceremonial search for hidden explosives in the cellars of the Palace of Westminster.
As for Ambrose Rookwood, like Catesby, he also belonged to a prominent recusant Catholic family. Born in 1578, he was educated by Jesuits in Flanders. His older brother became a Franciscan, and his two younger brothers were ordained as Catholic priests.
Ambrose, however, became a horse-breeder and his stable of fine horses were needed for the rebellion to succeed.
He was a very close friend of Catesby and at his trial pleaded not guilty, claiming his involvement was due to his loyalty to a man he loved ‘above any worldly man’. His plea for mercy was ignored, however, and he was hanged, drawn and quartered on January 31, 1606, in the Old Palace Yard at Westminster.
Faithful to his cause, right to the last moments, on the gallows he beseeched God to make the king a Catholic. He was punished by being left to hang for longer than his fellow plotters, before suffering the rest of his sentence.
Mind you, it wasn’t the last the country had heard of the rebellious Rookwoods. At the end of the century, Ambrose’s grandson, the second Ambrose Rookwood, was executed for high treason for his part in the Barclay conspiracy to assassinate William of Orange.
Start at Stanningfield Church, which is small and delightful, and well worth popping into at the end of your walk. There’s a small lay-by in front with enough room to park. Facing the church, turn to your right and head up the quiet road towards Stanningfield village, passing the village hall on your right.
When you reach the village sign and war memorial turn left and walk along the pavement. Just before the Red House pub (right), turn left into Norse Avenue. At the end of the road, is a small green and a row of garages.
Cross the green to find a signed bridleway which threads its way behind houses, bending to the right and eventually emerging onto a road.
1. Turn right and walk along Old Lane for about half a mile.
2. Turn left when you reach a T-junction signposted Bury St Edmunds and Whelnetham. Walk along the road for a short distance until you reach a wide grassy verge on the left with a restricted by-way sign.
This is a lovely stretch of the walk, a wide green track with trees on both sides. Just off the track, after about 200 yards, is a picnic table, a good place to stop and enjoy a the view of the beautiful Lark valley.
Return to the track and carry on. The path descends to a meadow with a superb old oak tree, recently planted Mia’s Wood and a lovely wildlife pond, before emerging into a field.
Follow the well defined path across the field as it gently rises to a stand of trees on the horizon.
4. The path continues through trees, eventually emerging at a road. Go left. You’ll pass the sign telling you you’ve reached Lawshall, then about 250 yards further on, take a signed footpath on your left.
Walk towards Coldham Hall, a graceful Tudor mansion, built in 1574 for Sir Robert Rookwood (or Rokewood), father of ill-fated Ambrose.
It stayed in the family for almost three centuries until 1869. The Catholic Rookwoods built their own chapels at Coldham, which also reputedly has priest holes.
The estate passed through the female line to the Gages of Hengrave. Since 1869 it has had a succession of owners, currently, film producer Matthew Vaughn and his wife, model Claudia Schiffer.
When you reach another set of iron gates, go left, following the gravel drive around the side of the house, past outbuildings. Go through another iron gate with Coldham Hall Cottage on your left.
6. Walk along the tarmac road, for about a quarter of a mile. When you reach a T-junction of drives, go right. Follow the path, with a hedge on your left, until you emerge onto a road.
It’s worth making time to go inside Stanningfield’s little church, dedicated to St Nicholas. There was already a church here by the time of Domesday in 1086 so it’s rich in history.
Beneath the timber lined roof are memorials to Rookwoods and Gages, and above the chancel arch is a 15th-century Doom. I didn’t know about it before I visited and it was an exciting discovery. Just imagine when this depiction of the Last Judgement was freshly painted; such a vivid reminder of what awaits them must have struck fear into Stanningfield’s parishioners.
Churches are poignant places to visit, especially at the time of Remembrance. Here I found the memorials to the men of Stanningfield parish who made the ultimate sacrifice in both world wars, and more recently in Afghanistan.
In the choir stalls there was a wonderful photo of the choir, taken in 1929, cheerful, boyish faces beaming out. Reading the caption next to it, I couldn't help noticing that two names also appear on the World War II memorial. They belong to two boys, about 12 years old, kneeling next to each other. They look like great mates; gone but not forgotten.
COMPASS POINTS
Distance: 6 miles/10km approx.
Time: 2.25 hours (plus time to visit Stanningfield Church)
Start/finish: Stanningfield Church, Church Rd, Stanningfield, Bury Saint Edmunds IP29 4RE
Map: OS Explorer 211 Bury St Edmunds & Stowmarket
Access: minor roads and lanes, green paths, field footpaths
Ts & Ps: Red House pub, Stanningfield
