Food Review : The White Hart, Netherfield, East Sussex

Remember the good ol’ days when the first choice to go for a cracking night out was the local ‘gastro’ pub where you’d be guaranteed a great atmosphere, refreshing drink and delicious food?

I don’t mean the kind of place my parents made me walk to as a child so they could have a lager shandy while my over excited little brother and I sat in the children’s room with a bottle of Coca-Cola – strictly for special occasions only – and a bag of Salt n’ Shake crisps.

No, I’m talking about the pubs where the welcome (but not the beer) was as warm as the roaring log fire in winter, and the menu rivalled the finest of nearby restaurants with British classics jostling alongside something exciting and new or a favourite with a modern twist.

I thought those places were long gone along with snugs, dart boards and a juke box. Luckily, I was wrong. Tucked away in the village of Netherfield, near Battle, with a view of the stunning rolling East Sussex countryside, is the White Hart. It may be in the countryside, on the winding B209, but it’s worth the drive out as this is a pub that has it all.

OK, there’s no jukebox and I didn’t spot a darts board, but the menu is as good as any fine-dining restaurant around, bursting with local, seasonal dishes – including iconic pub grub such as a cheese ploughman’s – and plenty of surprises along the way.

There’s even a choice of four newly refurbished rooms to choose from to stay over so you can sample plenty of classic and contemporary cocktails along with English wines and local beers. Even better the chef Neil Bennett is well-travelled and the general manager Paul Bevan is also a charming and knowledgeable sommelier.

As we tucked into a dry martini for me – with a sliver of lemon peel rubbed expertly all over the glass to give it a zesty scent – and a negroni (both £10) for my husband at the bar, we both admired the chic country club-style décor. It was a Thursday night and the place was packed with couples, groups of friends and entire families.

The a la carte menu changes to reflect the seasons (Image: White Hart) Many were having pre-dinner drinks in the bar before moving into the restaurant or the snug (hooray!) which is pet-friendly. Outside there’s a separate building known as The Hide, perfect for weddings or parties, a bbq area, terraces and a beer garden.

We chose to stay indoors and quickly scanned the menu, which changes frequently to reflect the seasons and availability of local produce. The entire ethos is that the restaurant is farm-to-table with their own Homestead Farm supplying the pork and pasture-fed beef and lamb.

There are plenty of vegetarian dishes, too. We were starving and went for some nibbles before our starters – very greedy, I know – and were soon tucking into warm Sussex focaccia with aged balsamic and olive oil (£4), harissa spiced hummus with toasted mint and pine nut pesto and toasted tortilla chips (£8), along with Sicilian Castelvetrano olives (£5).

All of it was delicious and Alexio and I were supposed to be sharing. ‘You’re eating it all!’ he complained as I continuously dived in, but if he was too slow, then it wasn’t my problem, I declared.

For our starters, I chose a burrata with fresh peach, toasted walnuts, sherry vinegar and mint dressing (£9) while Alexio went for soy and honey cured salmon with Asian coleslaw and wasabi mayo (£10) all washed down with sparkling English wine for me and a glass of south African red for him. My dish was the first time I’d even eaten the melt-in-the-mouth cheese with fruit but it was a triumph of flavour. The juicy slices of peach bought out the rich, buttery notes of the cheese, and contrasted with the vinegar. Alexio made little grunts of satisfaction as he demolished his salmon, announcing it to be ‘delicious’ once his plate was empty.

A ploughman's but not as you know it We were halfway through our a la carte menu, accompanied by bespoke wine flights, and I was already full. But when I saw the White Hart ploughman’s (£14) on the menu, I couldn’t resist. There was a choice of Sussex Charmer, Sussex Brie or Kingcott Blue – I went for the Brie though I really wanted to try them all – and guessed correctly that Alexio would order the Homestead rump steak with peppercorn sauce and fries (£25).

Both were a modern take on pub classics, presented beautifully. Alexio murmured that his steak was cooked to perfection, medium rare, just how he likes it, and I almost squealed in delight when I spied a giant pickled onion on my plate. Every bite was incredible, and I refused to order my own dessert at the end as I insisted I didn’t have space for any more food.

That didn’t last long as Alexio’s dark chocolate fondant with chocolate ice cream and passion fruit syrup (£9) arrived. ‘I have to taste it for the review,’ I laughed when he protested.

Turners View is the perfect place to stay after eating at the White Hart (Image: White Hart) At the end of the meal, I sat back happy. I’d discovered a traditional pub with a contemporary twist that served up food that was affordable but beyond tasty. Even better we only had to walk up a small flight of stairs and we were in our room, Turner’s View.

It came with a double bed, sofa, large TV, huge bathroom and those countryside views. In the morning, after a great night’s sleep, we gazed out into the green fields to see dozens of fluffy-tailed rabbits hopping around before breakfast.

It was a wonderful end to a fantastic stay at a genuine foodie pub in a bucolic setting. We’re already planning our return to White Hart with all the family for a roast in front of a wood-burning stove and drinks at the monthly quiz night. It’s good to know the good ol’ days are back.