Food review: The George at Burpham, West Sussex

'Are we sure this is the right road?’ asks my wife as the potholed track takes a corner at the Splash Farm Shepherds Huts and we bounce past a giant stack of polythene-bound haybales on a mission to find The George at Burpham.

For years I’d registered the pub’s sign on the corner of Arundel’s Crossbush Lane – not least for its endorsement as Sussex Life’s Community Pub of the Year 2015 – but had never really considered where the venue was.

Our satnav guides us through the tiny villages of Warningcamp and Wepham – stacked with picturesque, thatched cottages and red telephone boxes – before we enter another world of empty fields, single track roads and 20mph speed limits.

The pub earned an AA rosette in December (Image: The Crown, Dial Post) And then suddenly, we are in Burpham – with its medieval village church ahead of us, and the welcoming white bricks of The George to our left. Parking up in the free village hall car park – with Arundel’s imposing castle and cathedral in the distance – you can feel the pace of life slow down.

The George at Burpham is not a pub you would happen upon by accident – unless, of course, you were following one of the Arun Valley walks. By necessity it lives or dies on the quality of what it offers. And The George has a lot to offer.

Charlotte and Martin Bull have run the pub since January - alongside leaseholder Andy Parker - having originally joined the team 18 months ago. As head chef Martin has ensured that the gastropub, which earned an AA rosette last December, takes its produce from a 20-mile radius.

‘We had someone from Trading Standards drop in the other day,’ says Charlotte, who looks after the front of house. ‘We could prove the provenance of everything we were serving on the menu. All the vegetables are grown locally, the fish comes fresh from Wittering, even the apples are from a neighbour’s garden.’

The George has a welcoming atmosphere (Image: The Crown, Dial Post) That extends to behind the bar – where you’ll find Sussex Harveys, Hepworth, Fauna and Long Man beers; plus Trenchmore Silly Moo Cider from Cowfold; Arundel, Worthing and Chilgrove gins; and Cast Iron Coffee from Chichester. With a nod to the pub’s location there’s also a choice of 0 per cent beers too. And lovers of Sussex wine will find Stopham Estate’s Bacchus and Sparkling wines, as well as Kent-based Limney’s sparkling rose, augmented by wines from small producers in France, Spain and Italy.

As for the menu: ‘People ask what specials we have,’ says Charlotte. ‘But it is always special. We have some key classics such as fish and chips and burgers, but the rest depends on what fish is fresh from Wittering or what is in season. Martin is very creative. I’ve never heard of some of the vegetables he cooks. It keeps it interesting.’

As we sit down to peruse the September lunch menu there’s no end of choice, with nine different starters and 10 main courses – not to mention nibbles, steaks and sides. There’s a nice mix of options too – with the mains ranging from megrim sole with caper butter, ratte potatoes and samphire (£28) to a simple cheeseburger with dressed leaves and fries (£19). The pub runs an offer on Mondays and Tuesdays of steak and frites, with a Sussex premium beer or malbec, for £25.

The atmosphere is welcoming – the 17th-century pub’s history is underlined by its exposed beams and a Spinning Jenny in the low ceiling, which according to Sussex Life’s own Chris Horlock in July 2022 was used by locals to decide whose round was next. But there’s a contemporary edge, with the new wood burner, a soundtrack of acoustic pop and dog treats available at the bar.

The u-shaped space is perfect for hosting larger groups and functions – but the area by the bar always set aside for locals. This is a community facility, after all – with residents of the three nearby villages clubbing together in 2013 to save the former George and Dragon from developers.

Relax in front of a roaring fire with a glass of Sussex It is still popular judging by the numbers coming in this September lunchtime – and when our food arrives, we can see why. I’d opted for a starter of chargrilled octopus with chorizo and smashed cannellini beans (£14), whereas my wife had roast parsnip and apple soup, with sourdough and Sussex butter (£8), which she described as ‘like liquid perfection’.

My dish is a piece of theatre, with an octopus limb curling over a bed of mashed beans swimming in chorizo oil. The combination of the smoky seafood with the spice kick of the chorizo and rich flavour of the beans is beautiful.

Our mains are similarly stunning – my date molasses roast duck breast is accompanied by roasted crown prince squash that just melts in the mouth, pickled Ticehurst greengages offering a plum-like tart sweetness and a serving of salty kale to go alongside (£26). My wife opts for the classic battered haddock (£19) in a spot-on crisp batter with mushy peas, tartare sauce and triple-cooked chips which feel closer to goose-fat roasted potatoes. There is no stinting on the portions – which sadly means we forego one of four mouthwatering puddings including burnt Basque cheesecake with cherries (£9), chocolate mousse with Earl Grey ice cream, boozy prunes and hazelnuts (£9), with a choice of ice creams, sorbets and a cheeseboard.

The George is clearly a destination pub – something it plays to by hosting regular theme nights, such as a recent game and wine pairing, and workshops including Christmas wreath-making and calligraphy, a writers’ club and a book club. We will certainly make the journey into the West Sussex countryside again.

The George at Burpham, Main Street, Burpham, Arundel, open daily from 10am (noon Sunday), georgeatburpham.co.uk