The stars have definitely aligned in Harome where Andrew Pern’s famous foodie haunt is back with gusto. Kathryn Armstrong paid a visit.
It’s the same but different. The famous low-slung creamy white building with its bonnet of thatch that’s been a food-lover's destination for more than quarter of a century.
The Star Inn has long been the star of the show in the North Yorkshire village of Harome, bringing with it Michelin food status and gourmet reputation. It has to have been one of the reasons why Harome was recently listed 12 in The Times’ ‘poshest villages’ chart.
But it was in the headlines for the wrong reason at the end of November 2021 when a blaze destroyed much of the building, leaving little more than a sad carcass. Customers were distraught, after all, this was where they had romanced, dined, held family celebrations - ‘it was quite a poignant event for a lot of people’, says the Star Inn’s chef patron, Andrew Pern.
For him, yes it was a tragedy, but as custodian of the historic building, he said at the time, ‘What’s done is done and this was an unfortunate chapter in The Star Inn’s history but that’s the luxury of owning a 14th Century thatched pub with lots of wood and lots of straw - it’s a risk that you take and it is quite ironic that people used to smoke inside in the coffee loft and the dining rooms.’
So, after an epic year of rebuilding and renewing, The Star has risen again and it’s a pleasure to step inside...
It’s one of those frosty and bright winter afternoons and we’ve booked late lunch after earning our sustenance on a four-mile walk at nearby Cawthorne and Cropton.
We did change out of big hiking boots, but stepping into the bar at The Star you feel they wouldn’t have been frowned upon anyway.
This is a place that welcomes and soothes from the first creak of the big wooden door and the crackle of the open fire in the bar.
We head to the dining room for a seat by doors overlooking the patio garden and can snatch a glance at the comings and goings of the kitchen where head chef Stephen Smith goes about his culinary business.
The kitchen wasn’t too badly damaged by the fire - it was the ‘middle bit’ - the old dining room, private dining room and thatch took the bulk of the fire damage. Downstairs was more water damage and smoke damage.
You would never know. It has all been so cleverly brought back to life, making you think ‘fire, what fire?’
But there are meaningful new additions. Search out the ‘Mouseman’ mouse on your table and those alongside.
Serendipity played its part the night of the fire. Storm Arwen was taking hold across the UK, and just a couple of miles aways at Dunscombe Park in Helmsley a huge oak tree was blown down.
Its wood went off to craftsmen in Ampleforth to be repurposed in the Star’s build and Pern called on the team at The Mouseman of Kilburn to use the oak for new furniture for the restaurant.
I can’t say I’ve ever sat and stroked a table during lunch but there’s was something lovely about the gentle grain, warmth and undulation of the oak that made me feel the need, as well as mouse-spotting on nearby tables.
The place bustled with contented diners this weekend afternoon, among them a party celebrating a 21st birthday with giant balloons to match, as well as young foodies ready to blitz the menu at this go-to spot.
A Pern menu is always an homage to its surroundings and Harome is surrounded by fields of game birds, fine growers and eminent fish and meat suppliers.
But there are the classics to be reacquainted with here. I wasn’t going beyond the signature black pudding and foie gras starter, such a special dish that Pern named his first book after it.
A controversial dish to many, but to me luscious, sweet foie gras is a dream food - something you eat little and not very often. Teamed with the spice and crisp of black pudding then a hint of apple and vanilla chutney, it’s a unique and luxurious combination.
My dining pal, a great fan of game, opted for poached and roasted red legged partridge with festive-spiced bonbon and a dash of orchard pear puree which did everything to suggest that dynamic of food and place. This is just the kind of earthy dish you want when you've travelled the country lanes.
A mention to bread. A course in itself – grainy potato and caraway bread loaf given so much care and attention from locally sourced ingredient. Ridiculously moreish. Crispy baked breadsticks were delicious. They were accompanied by joyous whipped chestnut butter whipped house-smoked cod roe.
My main course brought me to something I’d never seen before on a menu, from the specials, namely ‘spice rubbed Fridlington shot teal with nduja puree, oxtongue, savoy cabbage and bean garbure'. Wild duck, I needed to try it, especially knowing it would be perfectly cooked by these experts in game. The fillets were petite, soft and succulent and delicately flavoured rather than gutsy-game. The ‘garbure’ was an incredibly rich and moreish rustic stew in a little copper pot by the side. It all felt as French as could be – with the teal legs ready to be picked up and devoured. Such a memorable dish and enjoyed with a glass of the recommended Walt pinot noir.
Our other main course was thoroughly decadent halibut, a glossy slab pan-fried and then delicately dotted with clementine, parsnip and nutmeg-buttered spinach. This time the dreamy treat of a brown shrimp Danish alongside to be dipped in punchy shrimp head sauce spiked with peat whisky. All the food joy – with a pint of Black Sheep alongside, this being the kind of place where that’s OK.
I generally lose a bit of interest by the sweet stuff, but was happy to dip a spoon into my pal’s baked Nouritt fig and apple tart with brown butter frangipane, gingerbread ice cream, heather honey and thyme syrup. I was pleased he let me, albeit grudgingly; the sum of the parts perfect and every morsel delicious in its own right.
Here is a place it is so easy to relax, linger and really enjoy food prepared with respect for ingredients and dedication to gourmet enjoyment.
Definitely worth a scoot to the bathroom too for a look at the snuggly upstairs lounge en route. This really had been ravaged by the fire with the roof open to the skies but now, beneath its robust hatch has been stylishly and loving restored with a bar area and private dining space. Can I move in please, this star is so dreamy.
A la cart lunch for two, £166 including drinks.
