Super chef Ali Moran spends his time between his two pubs, The Blacksmiths Arms Lastingham and The White Horse Inn Ampleforth, which he runs with partner, Lydia. Whether it’s game from nearby shoots, beef from local farmers or gins and tonics behind the bar, the 31-year-old is devoted to putting Yorkshire produce on his plates. Here, he shares his food loves.
Tell us a little about The Blacksmiths Arms
It is the epitome of a North Yorks Moors village pub. It welcomes everyone from holiday makers, ramblers wanting a drink in our pub garden, shooters and gamekeepers calling in for their post shoot meal, locals by the open fire or those wanting an evening meal. Whatever time of year or part of the day, there is always a welcoming atmosphere in the bar, full of characters making it a rather inviting Yorkshire experience. I have a fairly simple formula when it comes to food. Using local farmers and butchers we have known for many years, we create old classics as well as producing dishes with a little more imagination working with produce like game and seafood.
Earliest food memory?
One has to be a good old picnic. It might have been a holiday with family on a Scottish island or a Sunday at home walking the dogs on the moors, a picnic was always packed and, hell, did our family know how to picnic! Flask, sandwiches, pies, crisps, cake, cheese, an old rug to sit on… you name it, we had it – in fact I think my first food was a Melton Mowbray pork pie!
I certainly get my love of sweet things from being fed my Gran’s famous millionaire shortbread – she got the ratios bang on. However, we knew it as Gran’s gunge.
Most memorable meal?
A hard one but Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck at Bray, where I got taken on my 21st birthday. What an experience, each plate of work of art – unforgettable. Another is my love of fresh Asian or Japanese food when my mum and I visited Nobu in New York. The fresh flavours and delicate dishes, so different to here in Yorkshire.
Who in the industry inspires you most?
Someone very close to home, Andrew Pern and his team at The Star Inn at Harome. It was the first kitchen I stepped into for a week’s work experience, what an eye-opener. The use of local produce giving a ‘Pern’ twist on classic dishes and fine presentation without pretence.
The whole experience at The Star, from the interior and the Yorkshire inspired food offering to the service from the team and the fun quirky touches Mr Pern uses, it shows that hard graft, quality and giving that warm Yorkshire welcome and atmosphere creates success.
What is the flavour of the moment in your kitchen?
It’s game season so we have grouse on the menu, and we are about to start working on our next menu which will include pheasant, partridge and venison. People expect to see it on our menu as we are on the edge of the moors surrounded by many shoots. We often hold game nights promoting and showcasing local game, designing a four or five course tasting menu giving a twist on classic game dishes.
Your guilty food pleasure?
The post Saturday night shift takeaway with the staff. I pop down to the local pizza shop and bring back an arm full of pizzas. A pint, a pizza and, don’t judge, a dollop of mayonnaise – Hellmann’s obviously.
If you weren't a chef, what would you be doing?
Most probably something in property design, I enjoy different styles of architecture and interior aesthetics. I’ve loved designing the interior of the pub working with local joiners and upholsterers and creating a warm inviting atmosphere. Also, I’m not going to lie, I like my food. Having been lucky to eat and drink in numerous eateries around the world and collecting many menus, a food critic or journalist in this industry would be fantastic.
Who are your Yorkshire food heroes?
When it comes to produce, Michelle of Groovy Moo in Malton. Michelle and her team know how to make the best, creamiest ice cream with some fantastic flavours to try. We stock it at the pub, I can never resist grabbing a quick spoonful mid shift.
Heroes for me are the team at Skosh at York. What an inspiring – the use of local produce and use of flavours presented with imagination and creativity.
Favourite local ingredient?
Doreen‘s Black Pudding made in Dalton, near Thirsk. I love eating it and using it in our menu whether it’s with game, scallops or a favourite is a black pudding bonbon to garnish a pork dish. It adds such a rich element to the flavours of the dish.
What’s next?
Onwards and upwards! You can’t sit still in this industry. We are constantly filling our calendar with events be it an alfresco food night in the garden using a barbecue and smoker, a game taster night or planning Christmas And New Year events. I’ve spent the last three years decorating and renovating the pub including the three bedrooms upstairs. It’s a labour of love, but I love it indeed.
However, if one pub wasn’t enough, me and my partner Lydia have taken over an additional pub, the White Horse Inn at Ampleforth. A pub quite similar to the Blacksmiths, we’ve still got work to do but we’ve had a promising summer. We are building a great team and aim to put it on the map as a pub known for Yorkshire service and food like Lastingham.
You're hosting a dinner party, who would you invite and what would you cook for them?
Being honest, this industry proves to be quite unsociable with long days. Therefore, I would love to host a dinner party for all our family and friends who we don’t see as much as we would like to. It would be back at our family farm, I’d throw a fillet of beef on the Big Green Egg, make a load of salads and a few bottles of champagne to wash it down.
Ali’s favourite dish
We always, or try to have, roast belly pork on our menu sourced from R&J Butchers at Kirkby Malzeard. People love it and you can accompany it with all sorts. One of my favourites we have done is roast belly pork, wild garlic mash, black pudding and sage bonbon and an apple cider cream sauce.
blacksmithslastingham.com
whitehorseinnampleforth.co.uk
